T-minus 4 days and I'm on my way to Thailand for a two-week volunteer program with a Colorado-based organization, Blue Star of Hope: http://bluestarofhope.org/ Here I'll meet up with some of my favorite South Africa friends (from my internship at Botshabelo) and we'll be volunteering alongside others from all over the world (America, UK, Czech Republic, Canada, and Thailand)...to create a cultural exchange and help improve the lives of elephants and Thai children alike! The first week we'll be stationed at an elephant sanctuary...cleaning, feeding, nuturing elephants...and then we'll spend the second week teaching English to children in a small Thai village. I won't lie, I'm REALLY excited and looking forward to this opportunity...but I'll definitely miss India...
Since my last blog entry, I've traveled the whole of the Indian state of Rajasthan with my very best friend Shannon Robb...we had some CRAZY AMAZING adventures along the way...which I'll be sure to write about.
I'm currently staying with this very sweet and super adorable older couple, who are the parents of Shannon's Mom's friend. They have taken me in as if I was their own grandchild...doing my laundry, feeding me, taking me to art galleries, giving me gifts, feeding me, feeding me, feeding me!! I swear...I now don't know which is worse when it comes to feeding their family: Jewish grandmothers or Indian grandmothers!!! Quite possibly a tie...
For now, I'm going to do my best in catching up with my blogs of India (before I leave for Thailand)...so stay tuned!
Merry Christmas to everyone...and happy new year! May your new years be filled with all things good...and may you end this year with reflection and gratitude!
Much love!!
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Saturday, December 4, 2010
My Birthday With The Dalai Lama & Other Spiritual Moments
First things first: a HUGE thank you to everyone for your sweet and thoughtful birthday facebook messages, wall posts, skype sessions, and emails! Hearing from everyone made me feel not so far from home...all the way over in India...so a million thank yous for thinking of me!
And now for the updates: (I swear, one of these days I'm gonna sit down at an internet cafe and write all of my stories out, but for now...bulletpoints will have to do!)
1) after enjoying lots of peace and solitude at Solitude Farm among the papayas, lemons, eggplants, tomatoes, green beans, rice fields, bananas, spinach, rocket, and varagu...I headed back north to my Indian love: the Tibetan communtiy of McLeod Ganj. And although I was merely traveling from the southeast of India to the northwest of the same country...it took me 30 hours! I began with a 3 hour cab ride from Auroville to the capital of Tamil Nadu, Chennai & flew from Chennai to Delhi, had an 8-hour layover there, took an overnight train to Pathankot, and then a 3 1/2 hour cab ride up the foothills of the Himalayas to McLeod Ganj. Phew!! Thankful that I made it safe & sound!
2) traveling solo means making new friends: on the train ride I met a super fun Australian couple: Heather and Nik...plus, I had made prior arrangements to meet up with Ariska & Josh (a Dutch/Australian couple that I have traveled with twice already). They introduced me to Kurt (an American) and Mariano (an Argentinian). These fellow travelers became my crew...my family...for the next week in McLeod Ganj. So much so, that Josh & Ariska set me up in their room on the floor in their sleeping bag so I could save some money! Thank you!!!
3) one day in McLeod Ganj our band of foreigners took a nice day hike up to the top of one of the mountains. The hike is called Triund...and we passed through boulder fields and rhododendron forests...it took us about 3 1/2 hours to go up and about 3 to come down...for a total of 18 kilometers. A wonderful way to spend the day; lots of sunshine and cloudless skies...there is something about being in nature that makes me feel so connected, so small, so peaceful, so spiritual...I'm sure somebody, at sometime said that nature was their sanctuary...so instead of taking credit for that idea, I'll just say "amen!"...but I won't lie: our legs were like jello later that night!
4) Kurt and I volunteered one afternoon at a place called "Tibet Hope Center". Here we spent about two hours meeting and talking with Tibetan Buddhist monks to help improve their conversational English. Wow! Talk about a spiritual experience! My group of three and I discussed reincarnation, karma, and monkhood. I mean, I already was a believer in karma & reincarnation...but after that discussion, I'm definitely sold. Later that night, we went to a fundraiser party for the center...chocolate momos and chai along with hula hoops and a dance party. Super fun to mingle with the local Tibetan community members and other foreigners!
5) THE DALAI LAMA FOR MY BIRTHDAY!!! So His Holiness put on a teaching for a group of Russian monks over three days...and it just so happens that the last day of the teaching was over my 27th birhday! How could I not go?!?!? We hitched up our yoga mats, blankets, FM radios (to hear an English translation), and notebooks on Nov 30-Dec 2 for the Dalai Lama's teachings on the Buddhist concept of bodhisattva (basically how to be a compassionate person who helps other people find peace...). Surrounded by men and women from all races, ages, countries of origin, religions, and backgrounds to listen to His Holiness...indescribable. Just the sense of calm and peace...wow...gives me goose bumps just thinking about it!
6) I haven't bought anymore purses since I last blogged...but I did buy two shirts...heh, heh...
7) on the first night of Hanukkah, my new friend Kurt and I headed to the chabad house to celebrate with about a million Israelis! We sang songs, lit the menorah, ate suvganiot, and munched on pita & humus. So nice to be able to celebrate my own religious traditions all the way over in India!
8) my new friends really went above and beyond to make my birthday so special...after the DL's teachings on Thursday, we went for lunch at our favorite roof top garden cafe for a surprise birthday cake, birthday song, and even gifts! Although I felt super homesick on this day (been away from home many times...but never for my birthday), I felt so grateful for the new friends I have made...and for all of their efforts and love!
9) also on my birthday, Kurt, Nik, Heather & I took the craziest, bumpiest, most ridiculous overnight bus ride I've taken in India...and probably in Indian history! 13 hours later we made it safely to Rishikesh (the self-titled "yoga capital of the world")...amazing energy here! Kurt and I are staying at the Parmarth Niketan Ashram (for $7 a day we get room, three meals, two yoga classes, and lecture...soooo good!!!).
10) tonight I head to Delhi on an overnight bus to meet Shannon!!! And our action-packed adventure begins tomorrow!!!
Until next time...namaste!
And now for the updates: (I swear, one of these days I'm gonna sit down at an internet cafe and write all of my stories out, but for now...bulletpoints will have to do!)
1) after enjoying lots of peace and solitude at Solitude Farm among the papayas, lemons, eggplants, tomatoes, green beans, rice fields, bananas, spinach, rocket, and varagu...I headed back north to my Indian love: the Tibetan communtiy of McLeod Ganj. And although I was merely traveling from the southeast of India to the northwest of the same country...it took me 30 hours! I began with a 3 hour cab ride from Auroville to the capital of Tamil Nadu, Chennai & flew from Chennai to Delhi, had an 8-hour layover there, took an overnight train to Pathankot, and then a 3 1/2 hour cab ride up the foothills of the Himalayas to McLeod Ganj. Phew!! Thankful that I made it safe & sound!
2) traveling solo means making new friends: on the train ride I met a super fun Australian couple: Heather and Nik...plus, I had made prior arrangements to meet up with Ariska & Josh (a Dutch/Australian couple that I have traveled with twice already). They introduced me to Kurt (an American) and Mariano (an Argentinian). These fellow travelers became my crew...my family...for the next week in McLeod Ganj. So much so, that Josh & Ariska set me up in their room on the floor in their sleeping bag so I could save some money! Thank you!!!
3) one day in McLeod Ganj our band of foreigners took a nice day hike up to the top of one of the mountains. The hike is called Triund...and we passed through boulder fields and rhododendron forests...it took us about 3 1/2 hours to go up and about 3 to come down...for a total of 18 kilometers. A wonderful way to spend the day; lots of sunshine and cloudless skies...there is something about being in nature that makes me feel so connected, so small, so peaceful, so spiritual...I'm sure somebody, at sometime said that nature was their sanctuary...so instead of taking credit for that idea, I'll just say "amen!"...but I won't lie: our legs were like jello later that night!
4) Kurt and I volunteered one afternoon at a place called "Tibet Hope Center". Here we spent about two hours meeting and talking with Tibetan Buddhist monks to help improve their conversational English. Wow! Talk about a spiritual experience! My group of three and I discussed reincarnation, karma, and monkhood. I mean, I already was a believer in karma & reincarnation...but after that discussion, I'm definitely sold. Later that night, we went to a fundraiser party for the center...chocolate momos and chai along with hula hoops and a dance party. Super fun to mingle with the local Tibetan community members and other foreigners!
5) THE DALAI LAMA FOR MY BIRTHDAY!!! So His Holiness put on a teaching for a group of Russian monks over three days...and it just so happens that the last day of the teaching was over my 27th birhday! How could I not go?!?!? We hitched up our yoga mats, blankets, FM radios (to hear an English translation), and notebooks on Nov 30-Dec 2 for the Dalai Lama's teachings on the Buddhist concept of bodhisattva (basically how to be a compassionate person who helps other people find peace...). Surrounded by men and women from all races, ages, countries of origin, religions, and backgrounds to listen to His Holiness...indescribable. Just the sense of calm and peace...wow...gives me goose bumps just thinking about it!
6) I haven't bought anymore purses since I last blogged...but I did buy two shirts...heh, heh...
7) on the first night of Hanukkah, my new friend Kurt and I headed to the chabad house to celebrate with about a million Israelis! We sang songs, lit the menorah, ate suvganiot, and munched on pita & humus. So nice to be able to celebrate my own religious traditions all the way over in India!
8) my new friends really went above and beyond to make my birthday so special...after the DL's teachings on Thursday, we went for lunch at our favorite roof top garden cafe for a surprise birthday cake, birthday song, and even gifts! Although I felt super homesick on this day (been away from home many times...but never for my birthday), I felt so grateful for the new friends I have made...and for all of their efforts and love!
9) also on my birthday, Kurt, Nik, Heather & I took the craziest, bumpiest, most ridiculous overnight bus ride I've taken in India...and probably in Indian history! 13 hours later we made it safely to Rishikesh (the self-titled "yoga capital of the world")...amazing energy here! Kurt and I are staying at the Parmarth Niketan Ashram (for $7 a day we get room, three meals, two yoga classes, and lecture...soooo good!!!).
10) tonight I head to Delhi on an overnight bus to meet Shannon!!! And our action-packed adventure begins tomorrow!!!
Until next time...namaste!
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Life Recently
Apologies for my delayed and infrequent blog posts...and thanks for continuing to read them! Life has been super crazy busy lately...and time seems to be flying by me at warp-speed!! I can't believe I'm now in my third month of travel already!
But here's the brief on life recently:
1) My career in Bollywood was a smash hit! Ok, maybe I'm exaggerating just a bit...but the whole 8 day experince was definitely something I'll remember for a very long time!! Basically our agent, Ramesh, gathered up five girl and five guy foreigners as background extras. We did learn one dance routine...but most of my camios were just walking by in the background or talking with another foreigner in the corner of the shot somewhere. Overall it was super easy work...and pretty entertaining, as all of us foreigners got pretty close by the end. There were foreigners from all over the world: America, Poland, Kenya, Rowanda, Latvia, Serbia, and Russia. I don't know the name of the film yet...they wouldn't tell anybody because they still have a year of shooting to finish...but as soon as I know, I'll pass it along!
2) Got the Delhi belly again while we were filming...the movie company paid for all of our meals (sweet!!! One less thing I had to pay for)...so breakfast and lunch were catered on the filming location while dinner was on our own (with 75 rupees to cover the cost). I'm thinking that one of those oh-so-pleasant-and-super-hygenic catered meals (did I mention that today is opposite day?) must have done me in. After a week of spnding waaaaay too much time on the toilet, I went to see a doc (a Western-style one..ok? Ok? No Dhonden with dirt pills this time) who loaded me up with some strong-ass meds. Thank Krishna I began to feel better quickly and am happy to report I'm diarrhea-free. :)
3) On Thursday night I took my first overnight bus ride from Ooty to Pondicherry. 15 hours on one bus!!!! Things in India are definitely farther than they look! I think I managed about four-five hours of sleep, which I must say, is pretty impressive for a bus ride in India: jerky, bumpy, speed up to slam on your breaks type of bus ride... Thank you melotonin! :) I was most worried about bathroom breaks and not being able to hold it (I think I'm tied with my sister and Ayla for the world's smallest bladder)...but I barely drank anything that day and during the actual ride...and though I was most definitely dehydrated, I completely succeeded at bladder control! I hink we must have stopped for the toilet five times out of the whole 15 hours...must say, it's a proud moment in my life! :)
4) Now I'm in Auroville...a social and environmentally conscious community just north of Pondicherry. Check out their website: auroville.org
Here I'm staying at an organic farm called Solitude Farm. It's run by a British-turned-Indian guy named "Krishna" who started thefarm after marrying his Indian wife, Deepa. They grow tons and tons and TONs of stuff on their six acres of land. In addition to the $7 a day that I pay to stay there, I also work in their garden. This deal lands me a play to stay (in a bambo hut dorm with the other volunteers over the cow's bed) and three meals a day.
5) Did I mention the open-roof shower at Solitude?!?!? Showering outside, with nature all around you, has got to be one of the coolest things I've ever done! I'm FOR SURE putting an outdoor shower in my backyard one day! While you're waiting for the conditioner to set in, you can gaze up at the birds flying by, see shapes in the passing clouds, or count the stars! This makes bathtime sooo much fun!!
6) I've discovered that I have a purse obession. Since I've been in India I have already bought myself three bags...uhhh, whoops! I just can't help it!!! They are all so unique, pretty, and CHEAP! But that's it: I'm cutting myself off...for a little while at least...
7) Great news!!! One of my best friends, Shannon, just booked a flight to India for the beginning of December!!! We're gonna travel together for about two and a half weeks! It's gonna be awesome to see a familiar face and to share this experIence with a good friend!
8) Speaking of early December...you guessed it: ITS ALMOST MY BIRTHDAY and HANUKKAH!!! I know everyone is wracking their brains to figure out what to get me...well, let me help you out with some suggestions: 1) money 2) money or 3) money! If you're in the giving mood this coming December 2nd, please feel free to send cash, check, or money order to me at my Mom's house. She's got access to my bank account, so your generous gift can go directly to my "I'm A Traveler" fund. If you need the address, here it is: Ilene Solomon 1300 NW 20th Street, OKC, OK 73106 Thank you in advance and I love you!!!!
9) Last night for dinner, the Italian chef at Solitude made sauted veggies, salad with papaya, and veggie sushi ALL out of ingredients from the garden!! I've never had such fresh food in my life! It was delicious, nutritious, and a much needed change from all of the dal, curries, and spice. In addition to my open-roof shower, I'm TOTALLY having a garden in my future home (wherever and whenever that will be....)
10) My solo-travel is continuing to go well. I made some really great friends (Fiana and Gloria) when I was at the beach in Varkala...and the three of us did the bollywood shooting together. I was actually really sad to part ways with them on Thursday night, but Fiana might meet up with Shannon and I at some point. It just goes to show that people are more alike than different...and meaningful connections can be made cross-country, cross-culture, and cross-age. Learning from others with different backgrounds, stories, religions, life experinces and perspectives continues to be one of my favorite things about traveling.
But here's the brief on life recently:
1) My career in Bollywood was a smash hit! Ok, maybe I'm exaggerating just a bit...but the whole 8 day experince was definitely something I'll remember for a very long time!! Basically our agent, Ramesh, gathered up five girl and five guy foreigners as background extras. We did learn one dance routine...but most of my camios were just walking by in the background or talking with another foreigner in the corner of the shot somewhere. Overall it was super easy work...and pretty entertaining, as all of us foreigners got pretty close by the end. There were foreigners from all over the world: America, Poland, Kenya, Rowanda, Latvia, Serbia, and Russia. I don't know the name of the film yet...they wouldn't tell anybody because they still have a year of shooting to finish...but as soon as I know, I'll pass it along!
2) Got the Delhi belly again while we were filming...the movie company paid for all of our meals (sweet!!! One less thing I had to pay for)...so breakfast and lunch were catered on the filming location while dinner was on our own (with 75 rupees to cover the cost). I'm thinking that one of those oh-so-pleasant-and-super-hygenic catered meals (did I mention that today is opposite day?) must have done me in. After a week of spnding waaaaay too much time on the toilet, I went to see a doc (a Western-style one..ok? Ok? No Dhonden with dirt pills this time) who loaded me up with some strong-ass meds. Thank Krishna I began to feel better quickly and am happy to report I'm diarrhea-free. :)
3) On Thursday night I took my first overnight bus ride from Ooty to Pondicherry. 15 hours on one bus!!!! Things in India are definitely farther than they look! I think I managed about four-five hours of sleep, which I must say, is pretty impressive for a bus ride in India: jerky, bumpy, speed up to slam on your breaks type of bus ride... Thank you melotonin! :) I was most worried about bathroom breaks and not being able to hold it (I think I'm tied with my sister and Ayla for the world's smallest bladder)...but I barely drank anything that day and during the actual ride...and though I was most definitely dehydrated, I completely succeeded at bladder control! I hink we must have stopped for the toilet five times out of the whole 15 hours...must say, it's a proud moment in my life! :)
4) Now I'm in Auroville...a social and environmentally conscious community just north of Pondicherry. Check out their website: auroville.org
Here I'm staying at an organic farm called Solitude Farm. It's run by a British-turned-Indian guy named "Krishna" who started thefarm after marrying his Indian wife, Deepa. They grow tons and tons and TONs of stuff on their six acres of land. In addition to the $7 a day that I pay to stay there, I also work in their garden. This deal lands me a play to stay (in a bambo hut dorm with the other volunteers over the cow's bed) and three meals a day.
5) Did I mention the open-roof shower at Solitude?!?!? Showering outside, with nature all around you, has got to be one of the coolest things I've ever done! I'm FOR SURE putting an outdoor shower in my backyard one day! While you're waiting for the conditioner to set in, you can gaze up at the birds flying by, see shapes in the passing clouds, or count the stars! This makes bathtime sooo much fun!!
6) I've discovered that I have a purse obession. Since I've been in India I have already bought myself three bags...uhhh, whoops! I just can't help it!!! They are all so unique, pretty, and CHEAP! But that's it: I'm cutting myself off...for a little while at least...
7) Great news!!! One of my best friends, Shannon, just booked a flight to India for the beginning of December!!! We're gonna travel together for about two and a half weeks! It's gonna be awesome to see a familiar face and to share this experIence with a good friend!
8) Speaking of early December...you guessed it: ITS ALMOST MY BIRTHDAY and HANUKKAH!!! I know everyone is wracking their brains to figure out what to get me...well, let me help you out with some suggestions: 1) money 2) money or 3) money! If you're in the giving mood this coming December 2nd, please feel free to send cash, check, or money order to me at my Mom's house. She's got access to my bank account, so your generous gift can go directly to my "I'm A Traveler" fund. If you need the address, here it is: Ilene Solomon 1300 NW 20th Street, OKC, OK 73106 Thank you in advance and I love you!!!!
9) Last night for dinner, the Italian chef at Solitude made sauted veggies, salad with papaya, and veggie sushi ALL out of ingredients from the garden!! I've never had such fresh food in my life! It was delicious, nutritious, and a much needed change from all of the dal, curries, and spice. In addition to my open-roof shower, I'm TOTALLY having a garden in my future home (wherever and whenever that will be....)
10) My solo-travel is continuing to go well. I made some really great friends (Fiana and Gloria) when I was at the beach in Varkala...and the three of us did the bollywood shooting together. I was actually really sad to part ways with them on Thursday night, but Fiana might meet up with Shannon and I at some point. It just goes to show that people are more alike than different...and meaningful connections can be made cross-country, cross-culture, and cross-age. Learning from others with different backgrounds, stories, religions, life experinces and perspectives continues to be one of my favorite things about traveling.
Monday, November 8, 2010
Ilene Updates
So, I just spent the last 4 1/2 days at the Sivananda Yoga Ashram in Neyyar Dam, Kerala...check out the website: http://www.sivananda.org/ndam/ and now I'm back in Varkala, just for the night, because tomorrow I....
1) head to Ooty to be in a bollywood movie!!!! Gloria (my friend from Poland who I met a few weeks ago in Ft. Cochin) knows a bollywood recruiter. We had a discussion about needing to make some money...well, pretty much the only way a Westerner can make some fast cash in India is by working in a bollywood film...so she called up her recruiter friend to see if he (by chance) had any work for us. Turns out he did!! So we head up tomorrow and start work on the 10th. They pay us PLUS cover our accommodation and food! And besides all of that good stuff, it'll DEFINITELY be quite an experience!!! I'll keep you posted!
2) The Sivananda Yoga Ashram was super intense, but helpful in discovering new parts of and deepening my own spiritual practice. Reflecting upon my time there, I definitely will incorporate a few bits and pieces...and leave the rest. You know...make it your own. I'll write more about it at a later time, but I'm grateful for the opportunity.
3) Kerala is for sure my favorite state in India. I've been in Kerala for a month now...and it just might be one of the most beautiful places on earth. It's got this tropical goodness going on amongst a humble mountain range. Right now it's turning "winter" (and by winter I mean going to 90 degrees from 100)...so the leaves on the palm trees are turning this yellowish-golden-orangey color. Brings a smile to my face every time I look out the window of the bus or train.
4) I think my abs will be sore for the next few days...at the ashram we did two, two-hour yoga classes at day! Phew!! It was awesome though, and I learned some great pointers to share with my future students!
5) Traveling alone now for a few weeks...and so far so good! I met some really awesome Dutch girls in Ft. Cochin that I traveled with for a few days...then came down to Varkala to meet a Polish girl (Gloria) and we stayed together at a hostel (Sky Lark) for a little over a week. At Sky Lark I met some really great people and became close with another American girl, Fiana. Gloria, Fiana & I spent a lot of time together at the beach, drinking chai, and chatting with the locals. The three of us will continue our adventure together with the bollywood filming! And at the ashram (I left Fiana & Gloria in Varkala for a few days and went alone)...I also made some meaningful connections with people from all over the world. Thank Shiva for facebook!
But that isn't to say that I haven't felt lonely or homesick or stressed about my future or money or this or that...because I have at times...but it's all a part of the process, right? Overall, however, I feel an overwhelming amount of gratitude for this time...so grateful that I cried. Is that normal? Hahaha...normal for me, I guess. I cry at Oprah....
And now it's time for some food. Ah! I'm gonna eat something non-Indian because after 4 days of ashram food...I'm ready for the good stuff!
1) head to Ooty to be in a bollywood movie!!!! Gloria (my friend from Poland who I met a few weeks ago in Ft. Cochin) knows a bollywood recruiter. We had a discussion about needing to make some money...well, pretty much the only way a Westerner can make some fast cash in India is by working in a bollywood film...so she called up her recruiter friend to see if he (by chance) had any work for us. Turns out he did!! So we head up tomorrow and start work on the 10th. They pay us PLUS cover our accommodation and food! And besides all of that good stuff, it'll DEFINITELY be quite an experience!!! I'll keep you posted!
2) The Sivananda Yoga Ashram was super intense, but helpful in discovering new parts of and deepening my own spiritual practice. Reflecting upon my time there, I definitely will incorporate a few bits and pieces...and leave the rest. You know...make it your own. I'll write more about it at a later time, but I'm grateful for the opportunity.
3) Kerala is for sure my favorite state in India. I've been in Kerala for a month now...and it just might be one of the most beautiful places on earth. It's got this tropical goodness going on amongst a humble mountain range. Right now it's turning "winter" (and by winter I mean going to 90 degrees from 100)...so the leaves on the palm trees are turning this yellowish-golden-orangey color. Brings a smile to my face every time I look out the window of the bus or train.
4) I think my abs will be sore for the next few days...at the ashram we did two, two-hour yoga classes at day! Phew!! It was awesome though, and I learned some great pointers to share with my future students!
5) Traveling alone now for a few weeks...and so far so good! I met some really awesome Dutch girls in Ft. Cochin that I traveled with for a few days...then came down to Varkala to meet a Polish girl (Gloria) and we stayed together at a hostel (Sky Lark) for a little over a week. At Sky Lark I met some really great people and became close with another American girl, Fiana. Gloria, Fiana & I spent a lot of time together at the beach, drinking chai, and chatting with the locals. The three of us will continue our adventure together with the bollywood filming! And at the ashram (I left Fiana & Gloria in Varkala for a few days and went alone)...I also made some meaningful connections with people from all over the world. Thank Shiva for facebook!
But that isn't to say that I haven't felt lonely or homesick or stressed about my future or money or this or that...because I have at times...but it's all a part of the process, right? Overall, however, I feel an overwhelming amount of gratitude for this time...so grateful that I cried. Is that normal? Hahaha...normal for me, I guess. I cry at Oprah....
And now it's time for some food. Ah! I'm gonna eat something non-Indian because after 4 days of ashram food...I'm ready for the good stuff!
Monday, November 1, 2010
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Sunday, October 17, 2010
Backwaters Of Kerala = The Jungle Book
***Be Kind, Rewind...to October 6-8, 2010***
After journeying overnight on the train, we arrived in Kochi (one of the major cities in the Indian state of Kerala). First things first: a stop at the Vasan Eye Care Center. So, Brandon got himself a gnarly eye infection (we thought it was possibly from the massive amounts of oil they use in Ayurvedic massages) so we asked our driver to find an eye doctor to check him out. Wow, I must say that I was extremely impressed with this eye hospital!!: a four level complex complete with exam rooms, pharmacy, and a waiting room with the latest LCD flat screen tv! The female employees scurried around the place in their matching gray saree uniforms...and the optometrist took a full-length, detailed history and report on Brandon's past and current eye health. Thank Vishu we got him the proper medication...and a few days later, his eyes were goop-free!
But our primary purpose in Kerala was not eye-health...but a trip to the BACKWATERS for an overnight stay on a kettuvallam (Keralan houseboat)!! So, the Keralan backwaters are basically a chain of lagoons and lakes that are linked by canals, both man-made and natural...which are fed by 38 rivers. They are HUGE...and pretty much extend to virtually half the length of the state of Kerala...yea, that's more than 900 km of waterways!! Picture the canals of Venice or Amsterdam...but in the middle of the tropics! Even cooler than this maze of waterways is the fact that in the midst of everything there are even small towns and cities! (And I won't lie...I was really interested to know if/when residents of these backwater cities have neighborhood association meetings!!...I know, such a dork!)
So, our travel agent set Brandon and I up on a three day-two night stay on a the backwaters in our very own, personal kettuvallam (Keralan houseboat). A kettuvallam is pretty much a As you can imagine, these houseboats are basically the prominent tourist attractions in Kerala, especially the backwaters...our houseboat driver estimated that about 600 kettuvallams cruise the backwaters in any given day! And though we didn't see all 600, we did pass by boats shipping rice and fish; taxing backwater residents; transporting children to school; and even carrying people's bicycles alongside them!
Honestly, I could have spent waaaaay more time on our kettuvallam!! It was so peaceful and relaxing to sit out on the cushioned benches and read a book or to enjoy chai at the dining table...and wow! Thanks to our very own houseboat chef...did we eat well!! South Indian (especially Keralan) food is DELICIOUS (and probably my favorite)!! Fish, coconut curries, beetroot dishes, fried bananas with sugar...the list of delicacies goes on and on and on and on...I think I gained about 2 kilos over three days! Brandon and I also took in the sunsets out ontop of the houseboat on the open-air deck...just like heaven...until we saw the BIGGEST BAT I'VE EVER SEEN IN MY LIFE!!! Seriously, I think it was more like a small bear with wings!
The backwaters themselves, seriously, were a tropical paradise: floating by tall palm trees, enormous coconuts and bananas, plush grasses, rice patties, and rushing lagoon waters...I could have swore we were in The Jungle Book! (all we needed was Baloo and Mowgli!) Come to find out, the author of The Jungle Book, Rudyard Kipling, was born in India and spent periods of time in and out of the country, traveling to the state of Kerala!!!...it's all making sense to me now...
Our time on the kettuvallam was truly decedant...I didn't want it to end; but more Keralan adventures were to be had...
After journeying overnight on the train, we arrived in Kochi (one of the major cities in the Indian state of Kerala). First things first: a stop at the Vasan Eye Care Center. So, Brandon got himself a gnarly eye infection (we thought it was possibly from the massive amounts of oil they use in Ayurvedic massages) so we asked our driver to find an eye doctor to check him out. Wow, I must say that I was extremely impressed with this eye hospital!!: a four level complex complete with exam rooms, pharmacy, and a waiting room with the latest LCD flat screen tv! The female employees scurried around the place in their matching gray saree uniforms...and the optometrist took a full-length, detailed history and report on Brandon's past and current eye health. Thank Vishu we got him the proper medication...and a few days later, his eyes were goop-free!
But our primary purpose in Kerala was not eye-health...but a trip to the BACKWATERS for an overnight stay on a kettuvallam (Keralan houseboat)!! So, the Keralan backwaters are basically a chain of lagoons and lakes that are linked by canals, both man-made and natural...which are fed by 38 rivers. They are HUGE...and pretty much extend to virtually half the length of the state of Kerala...yea, that's more than 900 km of waterways!! Picture the canals of Venice or Amsterdam...but in the middle of the tropics! Even cooler than this maze of waterways is the fact that in the midst of everything there are even small towns and cities! (And I won't lie...I was really interested to know if/when residents of these backwater cities have neighborhood association meetings!!...I know, such a dork!)
So, our travel agent set Brandon and I up on a three day-two night stay on a the backwaters in our very own, personal kettuvallam (Keralan houseboat). A kettuvallam is pretty much a As you can imagine, these houseboats are basically the prominent tourist attractions in Kerala, especially the backwaters...our houseboat driver estimated that about 600 kettuvallams cruise the backwaters in any given day! And though we didn't see all 600, we did pass by boats shipping rice and fish; taxing backwater residents; transporting children to school; and even carrying people's bicycles alongside them!
Honestly, I could have spent waaaaay more time on our kettuvallam!! It was so peaceful and relaxing to sit out on the cushioned benches and read a book or to enjoy chai at the dining table...and wow! Thanks to our very own houseboat chef...did we eat well!! South Indian (especially Keralan) food is DELICIOUS (and probably my favorite)!! Fish, coconut curries, beetroot dishes, fried bananas with sugar...the list of delicacies goes on and on and on and on...I think I gained about 2 kilos over three days! Brandon and I also took in the sunsets out ontop of the houseboat on the open-air deck...just like heaven...until we saw the BIGGEST BAT I'VE EVER SEEN IN MY LIFE!!! Seriously, I think it was more like a small bear with wings!
The backwaters themselves, seriously, were a tropical paradise: floating by tall palm trees, enormous coconuts and bananas, plush grasses, rice patties, and rushing lagoon waters...I could have swore we were in The Jungle Book! (all we needed was Baloo and Mowgli!) Come to find out, the author of The Jungle Book, Rudyard Kipling, was born in India and spent periods of time in and out of the country, traveling to the state of Kerala!!!...it's all making sense to me now...
Our time on the kettuvallam was truly decedant...I didn't want it to end; but more Keralan adventures were to be had...
Going Going Goa...And My Existential Crisis
After an action-packed couple of days in Mumbai, Brandon & I headed down to India's smallest state, the beach-lined Goa, for some much needed R & R. We spent a grand total of 2 1/2 days there (October 3-5...I know, I know...I'm really far behind on this thing). After we landed at the airport, our driver picked us up & my initial reaction to our new surroundings: TROPICAL LOVELINESS!! Goa reminded me a lot of Belize: tropical climate, palm trees jetting straight out of the dark blue water, and the greenest, most luscious grasses and plants. Driving around Goa I could definitely spot the Portuguese influence: basilicas on every corner, Casa Bernardo/Fernando/Maria guest houses, crosses dotting the streets, names like "St. Anthony's Family Restaurant" and "Sweet Jesus" bus company. The Portuguese arrived here in 1510...seeking control of the region's lucrative spice route. With their conquering came the religious oppression and brutality of the Goan Inquisition. Where you'd normally see shrines of Hindu gods like Shiva, Krishna, or Ganesh...in Goa they have been replaced by pictures of Jesus.
So Goa has a BIG reputation for being THE tourist destination (for both Westerners and Indians alike)...and I'd heard fantastic reviews from other backpackers of this 3701 square kilometer slice of heaven...but to be honest, I think I need to give Goa another try...because I definitely had higher hopes for this little place.
That's not to say that I didn't enjoy my time there; believe me...nothing makes me happier than laying out poolside at a nice beach resort (thank you Bambolim Beach Resort) or underneath an umbrella on the sand among palm tress...
I guess I was just a little disappointed by the HUGE amount of trash floating next to me while body surfing and saddened by the high number of children walking up and down the beach begging tourists (both foreign and local) to buy their shell necklaces or leather braided bracelets. At one point, I think I had six children (all between the ages of 7-12) surrounding me on my beach chair, with their jewelery strewn across my legs, stomach, and chest, reasoning with me: "for you, 25 rupees." "no thank you. I don't want it." "why not? It's good price." "no, it's ok." "ok, you look tomorrow and buy." "why aren't you in school? Stop selling these things and go to school. Do you know show to read or write?" blank stares.... "no. You want to see more necklaces?" "no. Go to school and learn, then you can make lots of money." About 15 minutes of persistence, I caved a bought a bracelet...bad idea! Then they all wanted me to buy from them! Finally I had to get up and go in the polluted water just to get away.
When I returned to my chair, not 10 minutes went past before a group of teenaged girls with blankets and sarongs came by...boasting of their low prices and special deals they could give me. "no thank you".... About an hour later, old, graying ladies with skin browner and weathered by a life-time in the sun came by offering manicure, pedicure, Ayurveda massages at "good price"..."no thank you" "no thank you" "no thank you!!!!!!!!!"
And when they all left, moved onto other tourists along the beach, I couldn't stop thinking about them...I spent the rest of the day reflecting on the lives of these people. To have first met the young children and to then observe the subsequent age progression of the "beach business people"...it was like I fast-forwarded the lives of the young kids; their whole life's journey unfolded before my eyes: every day the same, but with different products to sell...putting countless hours in the hot sun, day after day...year after year...to try to make a few rupees.
The street kids we met at Chowpatty beach also came to mind...I couldn't stop the flood of questions: Do I buy from them? Where is the money actually going? What happens to them at the end of the day if they don't sell anything? Do they get beaten? Are they safe? Do I give the street kids money? I have so much more then them, surely I can give some rupees? If I give to one, do I give to all? Where do you draw the line? How do you draw a line? But what if I honestly don't want anything that they are selling? Then what? How can I help? What is the local government doing to help these people? What's my role?...ah...I need a vacation from my mind!
But it wasn't all so serious...Brandon and I met a newlywed couple from northern India, who were honeymooning in Goa. We spent our days touring and laying out with them and our nights around a table full of rice, dal fry, curries, rotis, kingfisher beer, and talking about our respective lives and cultures. Don't forget the cruise we took around the harbour...complete with traditional Goan music and dance. It was lively, festive, and PACKED full of people!
All-in-all Goa provided me with a nice tan, some deep thought, and new friends. I do think I want to give it another go...maybe check out more of the beaches...but, as Brandon and I said at the end of our stay: "going, going....Goa"
So Goa has a BIG reputation for being THE tourist destination (for both Westerners and Indians alike)...and I'd heard fantastic reviews from other backpackers of this 3701 square kilometer slice of heaven...but to be honest, I think I need to give Goa another try...because I definitely had higher hopes for this little place.
That's not to say that I didn't enjoy my time there; believe me...nothing makes me happier than laying out poolside at a nice beach resort (thank you Bambolim Beach Resort) or underneath an umbrella on the sand among palm tress...
I guess I was just a little disappointed by the HUGE amount of trash floating next to me while body surfing and saddened by the high number of children walking up and down the beach begging tourists (both foreign and local) to buy their shell necklaces or leather braided bracelets. At one point, I think I had six children (all between the ages of 7-12) surrounding me on my beach chair, with their jewelery strewn across my legs, stomach, and chest, reasoning with me: "for you, 25 rupees." "no thank you. I don't want it." "why not? It's good price." "no, it's ok." "ok, you look tomorrow and buy." "why aren't you in school? Stop selling these things and go to school. Do you know show to read or write?" blank stares.... "no. You want to see more necklaces?" "no. Go to school and learn, then you can make lots of money." About 15 minutes of persistence, I caved a bought a bracelet...bad idea! Then they all wanted me to buy from them! Finally I had to get up and go in the polluted water just to get away.
When I returned to my chair, not 10 minutes went past before a group of teenaged girls with blankets and sarongs came by...boasting of their low prices and special deals they could give me. "no thank you".... About an hour later, old, graying ladies with skin browner and weathered by a life-time in the sun came by offering manicure, pedicure, Ayurveda massages at "good price"..."no thank you" "no thank you" "no thank you!!!!!!!!!"
And when they all left, moved onto other tourists along the beach, I couldn't stop thinking about them...I spent the rest of the day reflecting on the lives of these people. To have first met the young children and to then observe the subsequent age progression of the "beach business people"...it was like I fast-forwarded the lives of the young kids; their whole life's journey unfolded before my eyes: every day the same, but with different products to sell...putting countless hours in the hot sun, day after day...year after year...to try to make a few rupees.
The street kids we met at Chowpatty beach also came to mind...I couldn't stop the flood of questions: Do I buy from them? Where is the money actually going? What happens to them at the end of the day if they don't sell anything? Do they get beaten? Are they safe? Do I give the street kids money? I have so much more then them, surely I can give some rupees? If I give to one, do I give to all? Where do you draw the line? How do you draw a line? But what if I honestly don't want anything that they are selling? Then what? How can I help? What is the local government doing to help these people? What's my role?...ah...I need a vacation from my mind!
But it wasn't all so serious...Brandon and I met a newlywed couple from northern India, who were honeymooning in Goa. We spent our days touring and laying out with them and our nights around a table full of rice, dal fry, curries, rotis, kingfisher beer, and talking about our respective lives and cultures. Don't forget the cruise we took around the harbour...complete with traditional Goan music and dance. It was lively, festive, and PACKED full of people!
All-in-all Goa provided me with a nice tan, some deep thought, and new friends. I do think I want to give it another go...maybe check out more of the beaches...but, as Brandon and I said at the end of our stay: "going, going....Goa"
"Chai chai chai!" "Coffee coffee coffee!": The Soundtrack Of An Overnight Train
October 5th, 2010; 8:40 pm...first overnight train ride experince in India...and it went a little like this:
Brandon and I arrivedto the train station in Goa, bound for Kerala, a few hours early (didn't want to mess around and risk missing our train). After surveying the departure board (in Hindi)...we obviously still had no clue about where we were supposed to go. Luckily we found the information desk (and they spoke English!!!) where they directed us to our platform. With an hour and a half before our "scheduled" departure time...come on, this is India---rarely are the trains on time...we popped a squat on a wooden bench that must have been built in the 1970s, dropped our luggage and got comfortable. Brandon found a phone to call his parents, which left me alone, manning (or how about womanning) our valuables. Mentally, I stepped away from that moment and found myself with the awareness that I would soon be doing this a lot: sitting alone, watching my stuff, waiting for trains by myself in the darkness of the night. But what I found from within surpised me...no judgements...no fear, no anxiety, not too much bravery or overly confident...just the realization that I would soon be off on my own, exploring; and the knowledg that I can do it. Like actually do it by myself...and enjoy it. There on that train platform, in the middle of India, surrounded by old men hacking up their lungs, stray dogs searching for crumbs of chapati and curry, women quieting crying babies, and young men peeing off the side of the platform onto the tracks...I could do it (not pee off the side of the tracks, but travel alone). In fact, I was doing it.
But...as I've come to find out now (over the last 7 weeks of traveling through India)...you're never truly alone. Not even five minutes had passed after Brandon left to make his call, before a group of high school seniors from the capital city of Kerala (Trivandrum), began the typical Indian-Foreigner dialogue with me:
"Which country?"
"USA. And you?"
"From (fill-in-the-blank). First time in India?"
"Yes, first time."
"You like India?"
"Yes, I like it very much."
"You have children?"
"No, not yet."
"You marry?"
"No, not yet."
"(Look like I have the plege...then a big smile as if to say "no, really. You ARE married, aren't you?") Why not?"
"(uncomfortable laugh...as if there really is an answer to this one other than "uhhhh") Well, just not the right time yet"
The high schoolers (all boys) were on a field trip to Goa with their French teacher...who they introduced us to and we proceeded to repeat the exact conversation as detailed above. Only this time she also wanted to know how long we've been in India, where we have traveled, how long we planned to stay in India, and what type of work we did at home. (also VERY typical questions to be asked). After sharing our detailed life's story, another group of kids (this time middle schoolers from the state over, Karnataka) came by wanting our contact information so they could email us! I swear, you'd think we were the biggest Bollywood stars! These kids were AWESOME!! We shard our favorite music via our mobile phone speakers, talked about their school, teachers, favorite activities, and who their favorite singers are (I was surprised and releaved that none of them had heard of Lady Gaga or Beyonce--maybe Westernization hasn't spread as much as I thought!).
Finally, following a dinner of Lay's masala flavored chips and a Luna bar, we boarded our train and left only 45 minutes after our scheduled departure time. Brandon and I splurged on our tickets and made our way to our 2nd class, air conditioned sleeper seats. This meant that we each had our own tiny little area: with a bed, pocket to place books & a water bottle, and a curtain. (check out the pictures)
Once we settled in our seats...the soundtrack of the trains of India began:
Track one: chai wallahs shouting "Chai! Chai! Chai!" "Samosa! Samosa! Samosa!"
Track two: snoaring old men
Track three: chatter of couples speaking Hindi
Track four: the squeak of the beds as they rattle along with the train
Track five: chains clanking as people climb up and down the latters to reach the top bunk
...it's at times like these that I'm extremely grateful for my iPod and amazing mixes from wonderful friends!!
Around midnight, however, things settled down as people drifted off to sleep...and my melotonin pills kicked in. But no worries, the "Sounds of the Ernakalum Express" started all over again at 6:00 am. What a glorious way to start your day:
"Chai! Chai! Chai! Coffee! Coffee! Coffee! Bread omellete! Bread omellete!"
Brandon and I arrivedto the train station in Goa, bound for Kerala, a few hours early (didn't want to mess around and risk missing our train). After surveying the departure board (in Hindi)...we obviously still had no clue about where we were supposed to go. Luckily we found the information desk (and they spoke English!!!) where they directed us to our platform. With an hour and a half before our "scheduled" departure time...come on, this is India---rarely are the trains on time...we popped a squat on a wooden bench that must have been built in the 1970s, dropped our luggage and got comfortable. Brandon found a phone to call his parents, which left me alone, manning (or how about womanning) our valuables. Mentally, I stepped away from that moment and found myself with the awareness that I would soon be doing this a lot: sitting alone, watching my stuff, waiting for trains by myself in the darkness of the night. But what I found from within surpised me...no judgements...no fear, no anxiety, not too much bravery or overly confident...just the realization that I would soon be off on my own, exploring; and the knowledg that I can do it. Like actually do it by myself...and enjoy it. There on that train platform, in the middle of India, surrounded by old men hacking up their lungs, stray dogs searching for crumbs of chapati and curry, women quieting crying babies, and young men peeing off the side of the platform onto the tracks...I could do it (not pee off the side of the tracks, but travel alone). In fact, I was doing it.
But...as I've come to find out now (over the last 7 weeks of traveling through India)...you're never truly alone. Not even five minutes had passed after Brandon left to make his call, before a group of high school seniors from the capital city of Kerala (Trivandrum), began the typical Indian-Foreigner dialogue with me:
"Which country?"
"USA. And you?"
"From (fill-in-the-blank). First time in India?"
"Yes, first time."
"You like India?"
"Yes, I like it very much."
"You have children?"
"No, not yet."
"You marry?"
"No, not yet."
"(Look like I have the plege...then a big smile as if to say "no, really. You ARE married, aren't you?") Why not?"
"(uncomfortable laugh...as if there really is an answer to this one other than "uhhhh") Well, just not the right time yet"
The high schoolers (all boys) were on a field trip to Goa with their French teacher...who they introduced us to and we proceeded to repeat the exact conversation as detailed above. Only this time she also wanted to know how long we've been in India, where we have traveled, how long we planned to stay in India, and what type of work we did at home. (also VERY typical questions to be asked). After sharing our detailed life's story, another group of kids (this time middle schoolers from the state over, Karnataka) came by wanting our contact information so they could email us! I swear, you'd think we were the biggest Bollywood stars! These kids were AWESOME!! We shard our favorite music via our mobile phone speakers, talked about their school, teachers, favorite activities, and who their favorite singers are (I was surprised and releaved that none of them had heard of Lady Gaga or Beyonce--maybe Westernization hasn't spread as much as I thought!).
Finally, following a dinner of Lay's masala flavored chips and a Luna bar, we boarded our train and left only 45 minutes after our scheduled departure time. Brandon and I splurged on our tickets and made our way to our 2nd class, air conditioned sleeper seats. This meant that we each had our own tiny little area: with a bed, pocket to place books & a water bottle, and a curtain. (check out the pictures)
Once we settled in our seats...the soundtrack of the trains of India began:
Track one: chai wallahs shouting "Chai! Chai! Chai!" "Samosa! Samosa! Samosa!"
Track two: snoaring old men
Track three: chatter of couples speaking Hindi
Track four: the squeak of the beds as they rattle along with the train
Track five: chains clanking as people climb up and down the latters to reach the top bunk
...it's at times like these that I'm extremely grateful for my iPod and amazing mixes from wonderful friends!!
Around midnight, however, things settled down as people drifted off to sleep...and my melotonin pills kicked in. But no worries, the "Sounds of the Ernakalum Express" started all over again at 6:00 am. What a glorious way to start your day:
"Chai! Chai! Chai! Coffee! Coffee! Coffee! Bread omellete! Bread omellete!"
Mumbai For A Minute
After leaving the tranquilness of McLeod Ganj, Brandon & I headed (via another night in Amritsar) to the north of southern India: Mumbai. Mumbai (whose pre-1996 name was Bombay) is a cosmopolitan peninsula located on the western shores of India. To me, Mumbai reflects a meeting of New York City, Los Angeles, and Rio...our first glimpses of palm trees line the streets of this fashion, economic, and Bollywood capital; also home to Asia's biggest train station ("Chhatrapati Shivaji" or Victoria Terminus) as well as one of the biggest slums (think Slumdog Millionaire). Oh yea, and did I mention millionaires? Apparently Mumbai is full of them (or "crorepaties" in Hindi). Seriously, we saw some of the most glamorous homes alongside designer fashion boutiques. But more up my alley: Mumbai also holds the title of home of the Independence movement, as then Bombay hosted the first Indian National Congress in 1885 and the Quit India campaign was launched there in 1942 by good ol' Mahatma Gandhi. (gotta love those community organizers!!)
With two-and-a-half days there...and so much to see...we really had to pack the days full. Here are just a few highlights of our time in my favorite bigger Indian city:
1) Mani Bhavan (Gandhi Museum): This museum was first on my "list of things to see" considering my love and appreciation for social change and social justice. The actual building used served as a home stay for Gandhi when he visited Bombay from 1917-1934. He even formulated his philosophy of "satyagraha" (nonviolent protest) and launched the 1932 Civil Disobedience campaign that led to the end of British rule of India. Visiting this place was very special to me...not only because of the community organizing course I took in grad school...but mainly because of my recent travel to and study of South Africa. Mandela and the anti-apartheid movement utilized much of Gandhi's community organizing philosophy and tactics. In fact, the Indian National Congress even had a large influence in South Africa's freedom movement as they worked alongside the African National Congress. Just really powerful for me to have the opportunity to stand on the same balcony that Gandhi stood as he addressed his fellow strugglers in the fight for social justice.
Also, we were in Mumbai during Gandhi's birthday (October 2nd), which is now celebrated as an official Indian holiday...similar to our MLK's birthday in the States). The whole experience just really brought a lot of recent reading (and study) full circle for me.
2) Parsi Tower: The next stop turned out to be just that...a stop. Apparently you're only allowed on the Parsi Tower if you're, well, Parsi. The Parsi are a diminishing community of descendants of Persian Zoroastrians who fled persecution by the Muslims in the 7th century and settled in Bombay. So the Zoroastrian religion hold earth, fire, and water very sacred...therefore they don't cremate or bury their dead. Instead they lay all of the corpses out in the tower...yea, pretty crazy right? It gets better...they do this so the dead bodies will be picked clean by vultures! Talk about the circle of life! Unfortunately, we didn't get to take a look...maybe it's better that way!
3) Inox theater for BOLLYWOOD: After our disappointment with the off-limits Parsi Tower, we headed to the nearest bakery for a cold coca-cola (although Pepsi products really flood the market here in India)...we randomly started talking to a business man on his coffee break about what to do/see in Mumbai. We could tell right away that he must be part of the Mumbai crorepatis, as he recommended some upscale, high-class, swanky restaurants, jazz bars, and night clubs. We did, however, take his suggestion of heading to the Inox theater ("The best theater...no one will bother you or try to take your bags", he assured us).
We made our way over to the Inox, which turned out to be in the first mall we've been to...complete with Dior and D&G alongside a self-proclaimed "Mega Food court" (we resisted all temptations to eat at the first Subway we've seen...when in India you gotta embrace the thalhi and dosa). After dinner we made it just in-time to grab some popcorn (about the quarter of the size of an American movie popcorn...and it was still plenty) and take our place in our pre-assigned seats.
Although the movie, the most recent Bollywood release "Anjaana Anjaani", was 97.75% in Hindi we got the gist of the story. Plus, it took place in the States: NYC, Vegas & San Fran!!! A little piece of home away from home...too bad all of the American characters had the worst accents and were definitely WAY less attractive than the Indian actors...oh well. We enjoyed it. And apparently so did the girl sitting next to me: she texted during the entire movie...
4) Hookah Bar: So I mentioned Mumbai is the cosmopolitan capital of India...obviously that means the teens and young adult children of wealthy Indian businessmen spend their nights smoking sheesha out of communal hookahs at swanky hookah bars. We joined in one the fun one night. After a long day of navigating our way through town, it didn't take much of the green apple sheesha and Kingfisher beer to make me ready for bed!
5) Gateway of India: The next day we made friends with an Australian and Italian duo and boarded a ferry for Elephant Island via the Gateway of India...which was built to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King George V.
6) Elephanta Island: through the Mumbai Harbour, 9km northeast of the Gateway of India, we ferried to this island of rock-cut temples...and no, we didn't see any live (or statues of) elephants...just a bunch of monkeys manipulating their way through tourist's picnic-baskets (don't worry, I did NOT have a repeat of the baboon experience of South Africa) and the ever-so-common malnourished mangy dogs. But weaving our way through the labyrinth of cave-temples, we got to see some of India's most impressive temple carvings: the Shiva temple & the 6m tall statue of Sadhashiva (the three-faced Shiva)...we also took some funny shots with old British cannons. Elephant Island, like any legit Unesco World Heritage Site was well-equipped with Indian chochskies galore! I caved and bought a beautiful OM symbol painted on a golden leaf.
7) Taj Mahal Hotel: Not to stay, but for a beer of course...because pretty much that's all we could afford there! Cross another one off the "1,000 Places To See Before You Die" checklist. Most recently known due to the terrorist attacks in 2008 (now there are HUGE metal detectors and tons of guards at the entrance)...but this hotel is also famously known as India's best hotel. It was grand and elegant...and the lady who gave me hand towels didn't even ask me for 2 rupees!!! Another Kingfisher beer (and unlimited bar snacks for free!!! whoa...this was high-class service) was a pleasant way to watch the sunset over the Arabian Sea.
8) Chowpatty Beach: For dinner that night our foursome went local, to Chowpatty Beach, for an endless array of street food! We bravely tried the Mumbai "bhelpuri": crisp fried thin rounds of dough mixed with puffed rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs & chutney. Delicious!! And the closest thing I've had to a nacho in three weeks!
Chowpatty beach was DEFINITELY the place to be on a Saturday night...everyone was out & enjoying the weekend. Whole families spread their beach towels along the sand, young "love" couples (as opposed to the typical arranged marriages) strolled along the water hand-in-hand, teenaged boys proved their athletic skills with carnival-like games of "toss the ring on the bottle", while teenaged girls (sporting the skimpiest outfits--hey, this is India's fashion capital) enjoyed fresh cotton candy.
We even collected a posse of street children...Mumbai isn't home to only millionaires you know...who we befriended and bought some Indian-style snowcones for.
But with anything, we did run into some not-so-fun moments. Like when our cab driver tried to charge us 200 rupees for what should have been a 20 rupee ride...or when we walked through the most fowl, nauseating smelling street (think animal & human piss mixed with body oder topped off with fresh fish---UHHH gag me!!!)...and driving past whole communities of Mumbaians sleeping on the streets. Overall, I really enjoyed my time in Mumbai...we met some of the friendliest and most helpful locals, walked around EVERYWHERE, and saw some very cool sights. I think I'll be back in Mumbai in December to meet up with a friend from high school.
With two-and-a-half days there...and so much to see...we really had to pack the days full. Here are just a few highlights of our time in my favorite bigger Indian city:
1) Mani Bhavan (Gandhi Museum): This museum was first on my "list of things to see" considering my love and appreciation for social change and social justice. The actual building used served as a home stay for Gandhi when he visited Bombay from 1917-1934. He even formulated his philosophy of "satyagraha" (nonviolent protest) and launched the 1932 Civil Disobedience campaign that led to the end of British rule of India. Visiting this place was very special to me...not only because of the community organizing course I took in grad school...but mainly because of my recent travel to and study of South Africa. Mandela and the anti-apartheid movement utilized much of Gandhi's community organizing philosophy and tactics. In fact, the Indian National Congress even had a large influence in South Africa's freedom movement as they worked alongside the African National Congress. Just really powerful for me to have the opportunity to stand on the same balcony that Gandhi stood as he addressed his fellow strugglers in the fight for social justice.
Also, we were in Mumbai during Gandhi's birthday (October 2nd), which is now celebrated as an official Indian holiday...similar to our MLK's birthday in the States). The whole experience just really brought a lot of recent reading (and study) full circle for me.
2) Parsi Tower: The next stop turned out to be just that...a stop. Apparently you're only allowed on the Parsi Tower if you're, well, Parsi. The Parsi are a diminishing community of descendants of Persian Zoroastrians who fled persecution by the Muslims in the 7th century and settled in Bombay. So the Zoroastrian religion hold earth, fire, and water very sacred...therefore they don't cremate or bury their dead. Instead they lay all of the corpses out in the tower...yea, pretty crazy right? It gets better...they do this so the dead bodies will be picked clean by vultures! Talk about the circle of life! Unfortunately, we didn't get to take a look...maybe it's better that way!
3) Inox theater for BOLLYWOOD: After our disappointment with the off-limits Parsi Tower, we headed to the nearest bakery for a cold coca-cola (although Pepsi products really flood the market here in India)...we randomly started talking to a business man on his coffee break about what to do/see in Mumbai. We could tell right away that he must be part of the Mumbai crorepatis, as he recommended some upscale, high-class, swanky restaurants, jazz bars, and night clubs. We did, however, take his suggestion of heading to the Inox theater ("The best theater...no one will bother you or try to take your bags", he assured us).
We made our way over to the Inox, which turned out to be in the first mall we've been to...complete with Dior and D&G alongside a self-proclaimed "Mega Food court" (we resisted all temptations to eat at the first Subway we've seen...when in India you gotta embrace the thalhi and dosa). After dinner we made it just in-time to grab some popcorn (about the quarter of the size of an American movie popcorn...and it was still plenty) and take our place in our pre-assigned seats.
Although the movie, the most recent Bollywood release "Anjaana Anjaani", was 97.75% in Hindi we got the gist of the story. Plus, it took place in the States: NYC, Vegas & San Fran!!! A little piece of home away from home...too bad all of the American characters had the worst accents and were definitely WAY less attractive than the Indian actors...oh well. We enjoyed it. And apparently so did the girl sitting next to me: she texted during the entire movie...
4) Hookah Bar: So I mentioned Mumbai is the cosmopolitan capital of India...obviously that means the teens and young adult children of wealthy Indian businessmen spend their nights smoking sheesha out of communal hookahs at swanky hookah bars. We joined in one the fun one night. After a long day of navigating our way through town, it didn't take much of the green apple sheesha and Kingfisher beer to make me ready for bed!
5) Gateway of India: The next day we made friends with an Australian and Italian duo and boarded a ferry for Elephant Island via the Gateway of India...which was built to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King George V.
6) Elephanta Island: through the Mumbai Harbour, 9km northeast of the Gateway of India, we ferried to this island of rock-cut temples...and no, we didn't see any live (or statues of) elephants...just a bunch of monkeys manipulating their way through tourist's picnic-baskets (don't worry, I did NOT have a repeat of the baboon experience of South Africa) and the ever-so-common malnourished mangy dogs. But weaving our way through the labyrinth of cave-temples, we got to see some of India's most impressive temple carvings: the Shiva temple & the 6m tall statue of Sadhashiva (the three-faced Shiva)...we also took some funny shots with old British cannons. Elephant Island, like any legit Unesco World Heritage Site was well-equipped with Indian chochskies galore! I caved and bought a beautiful OM symbol painted on a golden leaf.
7) Taj Mahal Hotel: Not to stay, but for a beer of course...because pretty much that's all we could afford there! Cross another one off the "1,000 Places To See Before You Die" checklist. Most recently known due to the terrorist attacks in 2008 (now there are HUGE metal detectors and tons of guards at the entrance)...but this hotel is also famously known as India's best hotel. It was grand and elegant...and the lady who gave me hand towels didn't even ask me for 2 rupees!!! Another Kingfisher beer (and unlimited bar snacks for free!!! whoa...this was high-class service) was a pleasant way to watch the sunset over the Arabian Sea.
8) Chowpatty Beach: For dinner that night our foursome went local, to Chowpatty Beach, for an endless array of street food! We bravely tried the Mumbai "bhelpuri": crisp fried thin rounds of dough mixed with puffed rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs & chutney. Delicious!! And the closest thing I've had to a nacho in three weeks!
Chowpatty beach was DEFINITELY the place to be on a Saturday night...everyone was out & enjoying the weekend. Whole families spread their beach towels along the sand, young "love" couples (as opposed to the typical arranged marriages) strolled along the water hand-in-hand, teenaged boys proved their athletic skills with carnival-like games of "toss the ring on the bottle", while teenaged girls (sporting the skimpiest outfits--hey, this is India's fashion capital) enjoyed fresh cotton candy.
We even collected a posse of street children...Mumbai isn't home to only millionaires you know...who we befriended and bought some Indian-style snowcones for.
But with anything, we did run into some not-so-fun moments. Like when our cab driver tried to charge us 200 rupees for what should have been a 20 rupee ride...or when we walked through the most fowl, nauseating smelling street (think animal & human piss mixed with body oder topped off with fresh fish---UHHH gag me!!!)...and driving past whole communities of Mumbaians sleeping on the streets. Overall, I really enjoyed my time in Mumbai...we met some of the friendliest and most helpful locals, walked around EVERYWHERE, and saw some very cool sights. I think I'll be back in Mumbai in December to meet up with a friend from high school.
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
McLeod Ganj: A Meeting Dr. Yeshi Dhonden
A few weeks ago, when we were up in the heavenliness of McLeod Ganj, I paid a little visit to an old Tibetan doctor: Dr. Yeshi Dhonden. This guy is FAMOUS!!! Seriously. So much so that if you want to see him...you gotta wake your ass up at 4:30 am so you can be one of the 60 patients a day that he sees... he is even the Dalai Lama's doctor... so you know he's gotta be good!
I first heard of Dhonden in my Lonely Planet book: "practitioner of amchi (traditional Tibetan medicine), which is a centuries-old healing practice and a popular treatment for all kinds of minor and persistent ailments. Many locals and expats swear by his treatments." Then more praise from one of the guys staying at Swami's...who said that Dhonden was: "amazing!!!" and that "the medicine has really helped me with some digestion issues I've been battling"...
For those of you who know me really well...you know that I am TOTALLY into (and excited by) any form of alternative healing...so I said "sign me up"... even if that meant waking up at 4:30 am...
So one morning I headed down the hill to McLeod Ganj with a new Israeli friend, Dror. (Brandon opted to sleep through this one...) We made it to Yeshi's clinic before the sun had even come up!!! (at 5:09) and there were already 6 people waiting in a make-shift line in front of us. But the thing is, Dr. D's assistant doesn't come check people in until 7:00...oy! So after two hours of trying to stay awake, we got our name put on the doctor's "to do list" for the day...but wait, it gets better: we then found out that the doc don't clock until 9:00! Let's just say that Dror & I became really good friends during that four hour wait!
FINALLY, at 9:10 am, it was my turn to see the docta...(I guess in India they make you wait forever before your appointment time instead of how doctors in the States make you wait forever after your appointment time)...Anyway, Yeshi is the cutest, little old Tibetan man, with a blad head, thick black glasses, and was dressed in full maroon and gold Tibetan monk-like robes. You could sense his wisdom and guru-type nature from the way he presented himself and by the patient's reactions to him...in fact, I met a German woman who has hep c. She said that she makes annual trips to Dr. Dhonden because his treatments are the only thing that has helped her condition...I'm impresed.
When it was my turn, his assistant asked me where my urine sample was....uhh...I had read in my Lonely Plantet book that he would want to check my sample...but my American assumption thought that meant going into the clinic's bathroom with a pee-cup and writing my name on it with the sharpies provided...apparently, not. Then I take a look around and see that every single person has brought their own urine samples with them: in water bottles, small plastic cups, mugs, and even a jack daniels bottle...whoops! I didn't know that it had to be your first pee of the day!! But the reason for the first pee: it's free of any food/beverages that you've had for a good 8 hours...and "pure" for Yeshi to analyze. His urine assessment consists of a once-over-look and then pour into the sink while briskly whisking...here he's checking for any type of infection, how bad it is, and where it is located.
So, skip that part for me...and I went straight into the doctor's office where I sat in a school desk with my arms out so he could check my pulses. He grumbled a bit to his assistant & translator, to which the translator asked me my symptoms. I proceeded to tell him about my chronic congestion, sinus pressure headaches, and throat and ear blockages. (Yes, I've talked to my general doctor about it. Yes, I've seen an ENT at home. Yes, I've been allergy tested. They all say that I'm fine...so when in Tibetan exile? Try a Tibetan doctor.) More grumbling between Dhonden and the translator...and wham, bam, thank you ma'am...I leave 5 minutes later with a prescription for Tibetan pills--that I fill at the pharmacy on-site.
I was given a month's supply of small, brown balls made of herbs. What's in them? Who knows...probably tree bark, roots, and flower pedals? I'm supposed to take two before breakfast, two after lunch, and four after dinner...with warm water. All of that cost me $10.
So, if you checked-out in my latest pictures, you might have seen a couple of me & Dror with the biggest look of digust you've ever seen in your life? Yea, that was post-Tibetan pill taking...god, they taste bad. Like a tiny pile of dirt mixed with fresh tree bark all coasted in a hard shell of earth.
But, they seem to be working...so I'm sticking to it...I'll keep you posted.
I first heard of Dhonden in my Lonely Planet book: "practitioner of amchi (traditional Tibetan medicine), which is a centuries-old healing practice and a popular treatment for all kinds of minor and persistent ailments. Many locals and expats swear by his treatments." Then more praise from one of the guys staying at Swami's...who said that Dhonden was: "amazing!!!" and that "the medicine has really helped me with some digestion issues I've been battling"...
For those of you who know me really well...you know that I am TOTALLY into (and excited by) any form of alternative healing...so I said "sign me up"... even if that meant waking up at 4:30 am...
So one morning I headed down the hill to McLeod Ganj with a new Israeli friend, Dror. (Brandon opted to sleep through this one...) We made it to Yeshi's clinic before the sun had even come up!!! (at 5:09) and there were already 6 people waiting in a make-shift line in front of us. But the thing is, Dr. D's assistant doesn't come check people in until 7:00...oy! So after two hours of trying to stay awake, we got our name put on the doctor's "to do list" for the day...but wait, it gets better: we then found out that the doc don't clock until 9:00! Let's just say that Dror & I became really good friends during that four hour wait!
FINALLY, at 9:10 am, it was my turn to see the docta...(I guess in India they make you wait forever before your appointment time instead of how doctors in the States make you wait forever after your appointment time)...Anyway, Yeshi is the cutest, little old Tibetan man, with a blad head, thick black glasses, and was dressed in full maroon and gold Tibetan monk-like robes. You could sense his wisdom and guru-type nature from the way he presented himself and by the patient's reactions to him...in fact, I met a German woman who has hep c. She said that she makes annual trips to Dr. Dhonden because his treatments are the only thing that has helped her condition...I'm impresed.
When it was my turn, his assistant asked me where my urine sample was....uhh...I had read in my Lonely Plantet book that he would want to check my sample...but my American assumption thought that meant going into the clinic's bathroom with a pee-cup and writing my name on it with the sharpies provided...apparently, not. Then I take a look around and see that every single person has brought their own urine samples with them: in water bottles, small plastic cups, mugs, and even a jack daniels bottle...whoops! I didn't know that it had to be your first pee of the day!! But the reason for the first pee: it's free of any food/beverages that you've had for a good 8 hours...and "pure" for Yeshi to analyze. His urine assessment consists of a once-over-look and then pour into the sink while briskly whisking...here he's checking for any type of infection, how bad it is, and where it is located.
So, skip that part for me...and I went straight into the doctor's office where I sat in a school desk with my arms out so he could check my pulses. He grumbled a bit to his assistant & translator, to which the translator asked me my symptoms. I proceeded to tell him about my chronic congestion, sinus pressure headaches, and throat and ear blockages. (Yes, I've talked to my general doctor about it. Yes, I've seen an ENT at home. Yes, I've been allergy tested. They all say that I'm fine...so when in Tibetan exile? Try a Tibetan doctor.) More grumbling between Dhonden and the translator...and wham, bam, thank you ma'am...I leave 5 minutes later with a prescription for Tibetan pills--that I fill at the pharmacy on-site.
I was given a month's supply of small, brown balls made of herbs. What's in them? Who knows...probably tree bark, roots, and flower pedals? I'm supposed to take two before breakfast, two after lunch, and four after dinner...with warm water. All of that cost me $10.
So, if you checked-out in my latest pictures, you might have seen a couple of me & Dror with the biggest look of digust you've ever seen in your life? Yea, that was post-Tibetan pill taking...god, they taste bad. Like a tiny pile of dirt mixed with fresh tree bark all coasted in a hard shell of earth.
But, they seem to be working...so I'm sticking to it...I'll keep you posted.
Monday, October 11, 2010
India Pictures, Round 2
More pictures uploaded to my shutterfly album...feel free to browse around!
Much love,
Ilene
Much love,
Ilene
Ilene in India Updates
Soooooooooo, it's been a little while since I've blogged and for some of you (who aren't on facebook to get my status updates), I've worried you sick. Sorry Dad!!!
But everything is just fine. Brandon and I have been SUPER busy going from here and there to just about everywhere in the last couple of weeks (which I'll give you all of the details in future posts), but at the moment, I'm in Ft. Cochin...which is a coastal town in the southern state of Kerala. We got to Kerala last Monday, and I can tell you this: I honestly believe that I'm actually in the Jungle Book. Pretty sure that Rudyard Kipling must have lived in Kerala, or at least spent some extensive time here...but more about that later...
But for now...some updates:
1) I FINALLY got an India sim card (so now you can call me whenever you want!). Geez!! What a freaking process that one is! Basically all the phones are on a prepaid system here, and apparently after the terrorist attacks in 2008, the Indian government got super strict on foreigners getting phones here. Their thought process (from what the AirTel guy told me) is that a terrorist can come in, get a phone, and the government would have no record of who is calling who. So now, when I got my sim card, I had to give a copy of my passport and visa, two additional passport size photos...Plus my poor tour driver also had to provide a copy of his id and two additional passport size photos to "vouch" for me! Oy vey!
2) When you're traveling for 6 months, it's cool (and TOTALLY acceptable) to wear the same clothes a few days in a row before it goes in the "dirty clothes bag."
3) I'm getting REALLY good at peeing in Indian-style toilets.
4) I'm a little ashamed to admit that I still don't know any Hindi...just namaste (which means "hello") and shuckraee (which means "thank you"). The thing is everyone here speaks English (some better than others), but I do want to try to take a couple of Hindi language classes while I'm here. Gotta make the effort at least!
5) Again, for those of you not on facebook and didn't read my facebook status update, before leaving Mumbai I got my haircut...oy. Lost in translation: the skinny Indian man who cut my hair got a little carried away...I told him "one inch", but maybe I should have said "2.54 centimeters?" He passionately and enthusiastically cut my hair all the way above my shoulders. My new mantra: "hair grows back quickly, hair grows back quickly"...
Before the big chop...
Me post hair-cut...with some middle schoolers I met (and talked with) in the train station before our overnight train to Kerala from Goa
6) Chai in India is freaking amazing!! And costs me 45 cents.
7) I am have come to accept the fact that I'm probably going to have 5 million pictures from my 6 months of travel. I'm currently uploading my pictures, so be on the look-out for India Pictures, Round 2.
8) I finished my first book, "Bicycle Diaries"...thank you Caity, Leah & Lexie for such a thoughtful gift! It was a great, thought-provoking book...highly recommend it!
9) Speaking of books, I really want to write one about women all over the world....
10) So today marks the first day of my solo travel. Brandon left me a few hours ago to begin his 3-day-long-journey back to the States...phew, good luck Brandon! And I'm on my own. It's a mix of emotions really: anxiety, fear, freedom, happiness, nervousness, sadness, astonishment, and gratitude. In my entire life, I've never done anything on my own...truly on my own. All my travels up to this point have been either with an organized group or with another friend; when going to college I knew half of my pledge class before I even rushed; I've always lived with roommates; and even extracurriculars like photography classes or yoga teacher training, I've done with at least one other person. Sure I've driven to Oklahoma City from Austin by myself, visited a museum in Paris alone (when all of my travel-friends were sleeping off the hangovers), started a job where I didn't know anyone...but when I say that I'm going to travel through India for 2 1/2 months by myself, yea, I think that's pretty huge. And while I'm sure this time will present a million different lessons and my thoughts/opinions/feelings on traveling alone will change from time to time...but, at the moment, I am surprisingly (and thankfully) calm and confident. And for that, I'm grateful. I am actually really excited to be totally free and independent of anything and anyone else...to pick & choose...to wake up when I want, to eat when I want, to spend as much time in the museum as I want, to stop for chai when I want...but I'm sure that there will definitely be moments when I'm lonely or want some connection with someone/something familiar. I'll keep you posted on how it all goes...
But everything is just fine. Brandon and I have been SUPER busy going from here and there to just about everywhere in the last couple of weeks (which I'll give you all of the details in future posts), but at the moment, I'm in Ft. Cochin...which is a coastal town in the southern state of Kerala. We got to Kerala last Monday, and I can tell you this: I honestly believe that I'm actually in the Jungle Book. Pretty sure that Rudyard Kipling must have lived in Kerala, or at least spent some extensive time here...but more about that later...
But for now...some updates:
1) I FINALLY got an India sim card (so now you can call me whenever you want!). Geez!! What a freaking process that one is! Basically all the phones are on a prepaid system here, and apparently after the terrorist attacks in 2008, the Indian government got super strict on foreigners getting phones here. Their thought process (from what the AirTel guy told me) is that a terrorist can come in, get a phone, and the government would have no record of who is calling who. So now, when I got my sim card, I had to give a copy of my passport and visa, two additional passport size photos...Plus my poor tour driver also had to provide a copy of his id and two additional passport size photos to "vouch" for me! Oy vey!
2) When you're traveling for 6 months, it's cool (and TOTALLY acceptable) to wear the same clothes a few days in a row before it goes in the "dirty clothes bag."
3) I'm getting REALLY good at peeing in Indian-style toilets.
4) I'm a little ashamed to admit that I still don't know any Hindi...just namaste (which means "hello") and shuckraee (which means "thank you"). The thing is everyone here speaks English (some better than others), but I do want to try to take a couple of Hindi language classes while I'm here. Gotta make the effort at least!
5) Again, for those of you not on facebook and didn't read my facebook status update, before leaving Mumbai I got my haircut...oy. Lost in translation: the skinny Indian man who cut my hair got a little carried away...I told him "one inch", but maybe I should have said "2.54 centimeters?" He passionately and enthusiastically cut my hair all the way above my shoulders. My new mantra: "hair grows back quickly, hair grows back quickly"...
Before the big chop...
Me post hair-cut...with some middle schoolers I met (and talked with) in the train station before our overnight train to Kerala from Goa
6) Chai in India is freaking amazing!! And costs me 45 cents.
7) I am have come to accept the fact that I'm probably going to have 5 million pictures from my 6 months of travel. I'm currently uploading my pictures, so be on the look-out for India Pictures, Round 2.
8) I finished my first book, "Bicycle Diaries"...thank you Caity, Leah & Lexie for such a thoughtful gift! It was a great, thought-provoking book...highly recommend it!
9) Speaking of books, I really want to write one about women all over the world....
10) So today marks the first day of my solo travel. Brandon left me a few hours ago to begin his 3-day-long-journey back to the States...phew, good luck Brandon! And I'm on my own. It's a mix of emotions really: anxiety, fear, freedom, happiness, nervousness, sadness, astonishment, and gratitude. In my entire life, I've never done anything on my own...truly on my own. All my travels up to this point have been either with an organized group or with another friend; when going to college I knew half of my pledge class before I even rushed; I've always lived with roommates; and even extracurriculars like photography classes or yoga teacher training, I've done with at least one other person. Sure I've driven to Oklahoma City from Austin by myself, visited a museum in Paris alone (when all of my travel-friends were sleeping off the hangovers), started a job where I didn't know anyone...but when I say that I'm going to travel through India for 2 1/2 months by myself, yea, I think that's pretty huge. And while I'm sure this time will present a million different lessons and my thoughts/opinions/feelings on traveling alone will change from time to time...but, at the moment, I am surprisingly (and thankfully) calm and confident. And for that, I'm grateful. I am actually really excited to be totally free and independent of anything and anyone else...to pick & choose...to wake up when I want, to eat when I want, to spend as much time in the museum as I want, to stop for chai when I want...but I'm sure that there will definitely be moments when I'm lonely or want some connection with someone/something familiar. I'll keep you posted on how it all goes...
Saturday, October 2, 2010
McLeod Ganj: A Typical Day in the Life of a Tourist
So, even though McLeod Ganj was two weeks ago now...I figured I'd fill yall in on what we did up there (and what made it such a special place to be)
Wake up around 8:00 or 8:30 am to the sound of Abu and Babu screaming, yelling, and laughing as they get ready for school. Swami, the owner of our guest house, lives downstairs with his wife, Lelu, and three small children: Abu, Babu, Shabu, with dog Tapu...(seriously....NOT making this up). Pop on over to the guest house next door, Evergreen's, for a delicious 90 rupee (about $2) "SPACAL(special) BREAKFAST": four little triangle-cut grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches, a spinach & cheese omelet, big ass bowl of mixed fruit, fresh juice, and coffee...this meal will keep me full all day. We eat outside on the balcony, amongst the pine trees, under the bright blue cloudless sky, with a view of the valley below. Chat it up with our Israeli neighbors, discussing anything from serving in the Israeli army, to American movies, and the latest yoga course tried in McLeod Ganj.
After breakfast, either take off on a 20 minute hike up to Dharamkot to the Tushita Center for a morning Buddhist meditation...or go back to bed. :) The Tushita Center is a center for the study and practice of Buddhism from the Tibetan Mahayana tradition. They offer meditations, courses, and silent retreats. If I had more time up north...I DEFINITELY would have participated in one of their 3- or 5-day silent retreats; super easy to be silent when you're in such a beautiful space!http://www.tushita.info/ The meditation room gets packed fast, so if you want a spot on the wall to rest your back during the 1 1/2 hour meditation...you've gotta get there early. One morning, Brandon & I were running a little late (whoops, slept through the alarm), so we literally had to RUN up the steepest mountain street EVER...phew, I'm thankful for my quadriceps!
Usually the mid-afternoons were spent eating at our favorite restaurant, Evergreen, or trying a smoothie at one of the many organic, healthy, eateries...even if we weren't hungry, we might grab four yummy little momo's (a Tibetan dumpling) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momo_(food) from one of the street vendors, or perhaps just grab a chai. One day, we shared some chai with a Nepalese guy and a couple of Indian guys in their apartment. They just invited us up...as if we were old friends. It was great to finally talk to some locals and learn their perspectives on Indian culture, health care, politics, travel, and Bollywood! However, one afternoon we actually skipped lunch altogether, to make room for the food we were going to learn to prepare ourselves!! Thanks to Lindsay Kohn, and her wonderful recommendations for things to do/see/try all over India...we got connected with a friend of her's for Indian cooking classes! It took us about 2 hours to learn how to make Yellow Dal, Malai Kofta, and Bangin Bartha. Yum, yum, yummy!!! Afterwards, we enjoyed our food alongside the master chef, Bhimsen, and chatted away the afternoon with him over chai.
Another favorite afternoon activity: two hour yoga sessions (the minimum time for yoga in India!!!) The first day we did a straight-up hatha style class, where we held each pose for up to 5 minutes (whoa...shoulder stand for 3 minutes is INTENSE!). The next few times we tried more of a hatha-flow class with a (apparently) world famous yoga teacher, Vijay. All of the Israelis swore by him...and every local you ask, knew how to direct you to "The Universal Yoga Center for Vijay Yoga"...so Brandon & I thought we'd give him a try. After two hours, we pretty much hit each and every yoga pose under the sun. Honestly, I enjoyed it...but I won't lie, I missed my Dharma Yoga! Plus, half the time I couldn't really understand his accent...however, by the second day it was a little easier to decipher.
The highlights of my yoga in India experiences so far:
1) 100-200 rupees per class = $2.25-$4.50 (god, I love India...the question is: why are we charging up to $20 in the US?!?!?! HELLO!!!)
2) I got up into headstand in the middle of the room...all by myself! HUGE progress for my yoga practice...and something I definitely a proud moment for me! :)
As for the late afternoons/evenings/nights, well we'd hit up the internet cafe with our new Indian friends, Dav and Nik...who must have invited us to join them in a million and twelve activities (meals, drinks, tours, etc...SO friendly)...or shop around in the Tibetan market: some of you will be receiving some VERY cool gifts from there! Like hand painted tankas or handmade yoga mat bags! One night, we went to check out the Tsuglagkhang Complex: the official residence of the Dalai Lama, the Tibet Museum, and the Tsuglagkhang (which is a Tibetan temple...the exile's equivalent to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa)...such a POWERFUL place to walk around and absorb. At any given time, you can see monks praying, give offerings to the beautifully intricate gilded Tibetan Buddhas (some are 3 meters high!), or spin the gorgeous gold Tibetan prayer wheels to send healing prayers out to the world (got some good pics of them...and was my recent facebook profile pic). I felt the calm, steady, and peaceful energy throughout the complex--it's the kinda place to take a journal and write about the meaning of life.
Then we'd be off to enjoy a falafel dinner or group meal with our Israeli neighbors. Watch the sunset from the roof of Swami's Guest House with a nice, with a hot cup of chai or fresh mint tea (both 10 rups each)...or hang out with some of our local friends to chat the night away.
All-in-all, McLeod Ganj/Bhagsu was the PERFECT way to spend a week...and I was beaming the entire time! And sooooo sad to leave...(apparently, you can experience feelings of grief & loss for a place you've been only 6 days)...but alas, there were more adventures to be had. I definitely want to go back there (especially for my birthday: to hear the Dalai Lama speak!!) sometime during my stay here in India.
Wake up around 8:00 or 8:30 am to the sound of Abu and Babu screaming, yelling, and laughing as they get ready for school. Swami, the owner of our guest house, lives downstairs with his wife, Lelu, and three small children: Abu, Babu, Shabu, with dog Tapu...(seriously....NOT making this up). Pop on over to the guest house next door, Evergreen's, for a delicious 90 rupee (about $2) "SPACAL(special) BREAKFAST": four little triangle-cut grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches, a spinach & cheese omelet, big ass bowl of mixed fruit, fresh juice, and coffee...this meal will keep me full all day. We eat outside on the balcony, amongst the pine trees, under the bright blue cloudless sky, with a view of the valley below. Chat it up with our Israeli neighbors, discussing anything from serving in the Israeli army, to American movies, and the latest yoga course tried in McLeod Ganj.
After breakfast, either take off on a 20 minute hike up to Dharamkot to the Tushita Center for a morning Buddhist meditation...or go back to bed. :) The Tushita Center is a center for the study and practice of Buddhism from the Tibetan Mahayana tradition. They offer meditations, courses, and silent retreats. If I had more time up north...I DEFINITELY would have participated in one of their 3- or 5-day silent retreats; super easy to be silent when you're in such a beautiful space!http://www.tushita.info/ The meditation room gets packed fast, so if you want a spot on the wall to rest your back during the 1 1/2 hour meditation...you've gotta get there early. One morning, Brandon & I were running a little late (whoops, slept through the alarm), so we literally had to RUN up the steepest mountain street EVER...phew, I'm thankful for my quadriceps!
Usually the mid-afternoons were spent eating at our favorite restaurant, Evergreen, or trying a smoothie at one of the many organic, healthy, eateries...even if we weren't hungry, we might grab four yummy little momo's (a Tibetan dumpling) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momo_(food) from one of the street vendors, or perhaps just grab a chai. One day, we shared some chai with a Nepalese guy and a couple of Indian guys in their apartment. They just invited us up...as if we were old friends. It was great to finally talk to some locals and learn their perspectives on Indian culture, health care, politics, travel, and Bollywood! However, one afternoon we actually skipped lunch altogether, to make room for the food we were going to learn to prepare ourselves!! Thanks to Lindsay Kohn, and her wonderful recommendations for things to do/see/try all over India...we got connected with a friend of her's for Indian cooking classes! It took us about 2 hours to learn how to make Yellow Dal, Malai Kofta, and Bangin Bartha. Yum, yum, yummy!!! Afterwards, we enjoyed our food alongside the master chef, Bhimsen, and chatted away the afternoon with him over chai.
Another favorite afternoon activity: two hour yoga sessions (the minimum time for yoga in India!!!) The first day we did a straight-up hatha style class, where we held each pose for up to 5 minutes (whoa...shoulder stand for 3 minutes is INTENSE!). The next few times we tried more of a hatha-flow class with a (apparently) world famous yoga teacher, Vijay. All of the Israelis swore by him...and every local you ask, knew how to direct you to "The Universal Yoga Center for Vijay Yoga"...so Brandon & I thought we'd give him a try. After two hours, we pretty much hit each and every yoga pose under the sun. Honestly, I enjoyed it...but I won't lie, I missed my Dharma Yoga! Plus, half the time I couldn't really understand his accent...however, by the second day it was a little easier to decipher.
The highlights of my yoga in India experiences so far:
1) 100-200 rupees per class = $2.25-$4.50 (god, I love India...the question is: why are we charging up to $20 in the US?!?!?! HELLO!!!)
2) I got up into headstand in the middle of the room...all by myself! HUGE progress for my yoga practice...and something I definitely a proud moment for me! :)
As for the late afternoons/evenings/nights, well we'd hit up the internet cafe with our new Indian friends, Dav and Nik...who must have invited us to join them in a million and twelve activities (meals, drinks, tours, etc...SO friendly)...or shop around in the Tibetan market: some of you will be receiving some VERY cool gifts from there! Like hand painted tankas or handmade yoga mat bags! One night, we went to check out the Tsuglagkhang Complex: the official residence of the Dalai Lama, the Tibet Museum, and the Tsuglagkhang (which is a Tibetan temple...the exile's equivalent to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa)...such a POWERFUL place to walk around and absorb. At any given time, you can see monks praying, give offerings to the beautifully intricate gilded Tibetan Buddhas (some are 3 meters high!), or spin the gorgeous gold Tibetan prayer wheels to send healing prayers out to the world (got some good pics of them...and was my recent facebook profile pic). I felt the calm, steady, and peaceful energy throughout the complex--it's the kinda place to take a journal and write about the meaning of life.
Then we'd be off to enjoy a falafel dinner or group meal with our Israeli neighbors. Watch the sunset from the roof of Swami's Guest House with a nice, with a hot cup of chai or fresh mint tea (both 10 rups each)...or hang out with some of our local friends to chat the night away.
All-in-all, McLeod Ganj/Bhagsu was the PERFECT way to spend a week...and I was beaming the entire time! And sooooo sad to leave...(apparently, you can experience feelings of grief & loss for a place you've been only 6 days)...but alas, there were more adventures to be had. I definitely want to go back there (especially for my birthday: to hear the Dalai Lama speak!!) sometime during my stay here in India.
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
A Week In Heaven
Last Thursday, Brandon and I headed up north to the state of Himachal Pradesh. We stayed at foothills of the Himalayan Mountains...in an area called Dharamsala. Basically, the Dharamsala area consists of a few tiny towns dotting the hillside: Dharamsala, McLeod Ganj, Bhagsu, and Dharamkot, each ascending upward by 2-10 kms. This area is best known as the home of the Dalai Lama, as this was the place he claimed asylum following the Chinese invasion of Tibet. The culture here is quite different from the other parts of India that we've been so thus far; obviously there is a HUGE Tibetan influence here: Buddhist monks dressed in full maroon and gold robes, people everywhere carrying around and counting their mala (rosary) beads, Tibetan language all over fliers and signs, as well as different foods like momos and Tibetan butter tea (uhh....when in Rome, right? I tried this type of tea, and pretty much it was a huge mug of hot, liquid butter. Let's just say that I had two sips and passed on the rest...YUCK!).
We stayed passed Dharamsala, passed McLeod Ganj...all the way up a steep, steep, STEEP incline...up to Bhagsu...but then, even more...up another 176 STEEP stairs to upper Bhagsu, where the clear views of the mountains and valley lay. AH! GORGEOUS! We had a 360 degree view of everything from the roof of our guest house, Swami's Guest House. And literally, after the craziness and pollution-filled week we had before, I honestly felt like I was in heaven. The blue skies against the bright green trees, with the sun shining in my face...inhaling the fresh mountain air! Pure bliss.
What the Lonely Planet guidebook didn't tell us was that the Dharamsala area (especially Bhagsu) is filled with Israeli tourists!! The internet cafe guy, who we befriended, told us that at any given time, Bhagsu is 90% Israeli! Haha! Who knew that I was going to get to practice my Hebrew in India! :) Plus, we had some DELICIOUS humus, falafel, and pita (a nice break from all of the spicy Indian food), and even hit up the Chabad House (there's one in Bhagsu & in Dharamkot) for a shabbat meal in the Sukkah. Such a fun/funny/random experience to get to know so many Israelis over the last week...but I guess Debbie Friedman is right, "Where ever you go, there's always someone Jewish"...even in India.
Even though we were only here for about a week, I know for sure for sure for sure that I have to go back to the Dharamsala area...there is SO much to do (which I'll write about later), and it's just so freaking beautiful!! I hope you all make it there one day!
We stayed passed Dharamsala, passed McLeod Ganj...all the way up a steep, steep, STEEP incline...up to Bhagsu...but then, even more...up another 176 STEEP stairs to upper Bhagsu, where the clear views of the mountains and valley lay. AH! GORGEOUS! We had a 360 degree view of everything from the roof of our guest house, Swami's Guest House. And literally, after the craziness and pollution-filled week we had before, I honestly felt like I was in heaven. The blue skies against the bright green trees, with the sun shining in my face...inhaling the fresh mountain air! Pure bliss.
What the Lonely Planet guidebook didn't tell us was that the Dharamsala area (especially Bhagsu) is filled with Israeli tourists!! The internet cafe guy, who we befriended, told us that at any given time, Bhagsu is 90% Israeli! Haha! Who knew that I was going to get to practice my Hebrew in India! :) Plus, we had some DELICIOUS humus, falafel, and pita (a nice break from all of the spicy Indian food), and even hit up the Chabad House (there's one in Bhagsu & in Dharamkot) for a shabbat meal in the Sukkah. Such a fun/funny/random experience to get to know so many Israelis over the last week...but I guess Debbie Friedman is right, "Where ever you go, there's always someone Jewish"...even in India.
Even though we were only here for about a week, I know for sure for sure for sure that I have to go back to the Dharamsala area...there is SO much to do (which I'll write about later), and it's just so freaking beautiful!! I hope you all make it there one day!
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
First Round of Pictures!
So...after a million hours slaving away at the internet cafe (remember dial-up? yea, it's freaking slow)...I've got my first round of pictures up for your viewing pleasures.
Don't be surprised if half of them are upside down or if my eyes are closed in them...I just wanted to get them up! So, please excuse the lack of editing.
Check them out:
Don't be surprised if half of them are upside down or if my eyes are closed in them...I just wanted to get them up! So, please excuse the lack of editing.
Check them out:
Thursday, September 23, 2010
India: Week One
Whoa...and what a week it has been! We've covered 4 cities and 3 states so far!
Delhi Population: 12.8 million
After arriving late last Thursday evening, Friday was spent organizing our trip with a government travel agency and doing a little bit of touring around the city. The hot spots included:
1) Humayun's Tomb: a 16th century Persian-style (the first of its kind!) tomb built by the Mughal emperor Humayun...it's completely made with red sandstone and white marble, which is said to symbolize the merging of the Persian and local cultures. Needless to say, it was beautiful. And...oddly enough, there were Jewish stars lining the entire structure. Queen Esther was a Persian Jew...maybe it was built by her grandfather?!?!
2) India Gate: this HUGE gate commemorates the 90,000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who lost their lives while fighting for the British Indian Empire (AKA: the British Raj in World War I & the Third Anglo-Afghan War). I probably would have enjoyed this more had I not been battling the growing nausea...phew, thank you for that free bathroom in the neighboring park! However, the India Gate did provide our first opportunity to talk with Indian friends...tourists from a southern state called Kerala. This older couple were so fascinated with us--probably because we were one of the first white people they've ever seen.
Agra Population: 1,321,410
Agra...geez...I thought Delhi was hectic. Agra was like a humid sauna, heated at 115 degrees, that left me feeling exhausted before we even started the day. But, of course, it was well worth it because Agra is home to the ever spectacular Taj Mahal!
1) Taj Mahal: Our driver Sunder set us up with a tour guide (most likely a business partner of some sort...meaning, Sunder probably got a cut of the money we paid for the tour), Dean. Dean (obviously not his real name...but that's what he told us to call him because his Hindi name was WAY too long & hard for us foreigners to pronounce) was a pretty knowledgeable guy and showed us all of the great picture spots. What I can tell you about the Taj Mahal is that it is even more shock & awe than you imagine it to be. The Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, who actually built this mausoleum as a memorial for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, said of the TM: "it made the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes"...and, after seeing it, I believe it!
The TM took 22 years and over 20,000 people to complete. It consists of three different types of building techniques: in-lay, embossing, & screens. Walking through and drinking in the magnificence of the Taj, I couldn't help but be humbled by the intricate and detailed work of all of those Indian and Central Asian workers who dedicated their lives to this piece of art.
Besides the actual tomb site, the TM also includes 8 gardens (fully symmetrical), a mosque and a guest house. The place was crawling with tourists, both local & foreign...but the best were the lawn maintenance crew cutting the grass with SHEARS! Can you imagine?!?! No tracker lawnmowers here!
After our Taj tour, we got a private demo on the in-lay work. And unfortunately for me, I got sucked into buying (what turned out to be) $118 Taj-like marble coasters. Oy vey. Lesson #1: never do that again. Dad & Debra, hope you like your gift!
2) Agra Fort: originally intended as a military structure in 1565, but later turned into a prison where Shah Jahan's son locked him up for 8 years! Geez, talk about lack of respect for your elders! Overall, a pretty sweet fort...plus, we got some great views of the Taj here as well. I will say that the BEST part of our time at the Agra Fort had to be the 30 minute wanna-be conversation with Kailash, an Indian guy (probably about our age) who was from a small village. He tried so so so so SO hard to speak in English with us...but overall it was just a bunch of sign language, smiles, and head nods. We did get his picture though and he wanted ones with us.
On a side note: here in India, as a white person, you're either the target of intense, piercing stare-downs (especially for me--as a white woman), or the paparazzi. I swear, once you give the ok to have your picture taken with one Indian, a swarm attacks you with flashes of the camera. They want you to hold their babies, to pose with their wives, or to take individual shots. It's hilarious! You'd think we were Britney Spears and JT!
On the way to Jaipur...
1) Fatehpur Sikri: Population 28,750
Here we had a roadside stop to tour the Jama Masjid mosque (and there is also a palace, but we were too overwhelmed with the Indian paparazzi and the rain that we cut our touring short). This mosque was built in 1571 to commemorate Emperor Akbar's military victory in the Indian state of Gujarat.
2) Monkey Temple: This temple complex was built to honor the Hindu deity, Hanuman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanuman...and is home to a gabillion monkeys! We bought some peanuts and feed them right out of our hands--and atop our heads & shoulders!
Jaipur Population: 2.63 million
Everything in Jaipur...all of the buildings, homes, restaurants, etc. etc. are painted salmon-pink--a color apparently associated with hospitality. It's just as much of a hustle and bustle as Agra & Delhi: touts trying to sell you things everywhere, street food vendors (we had our first experience with street food here...samosas! Delicious!), and kids following you for half an hour trying to convince you to give them money (yes, a little girl--probably about 9 years old--stuck to our sides for half an hour, with her hand out and puppy dog eyes, begging for money. Aye, that was hard...really hard).
1) Amber Fort: (Shout out to Amber Tacke! What what! Thought about you a lot here, girl! Hope your ACL heals quickly!) Definitely my FAVORITE fort we've seen so far! It's a massive maze-of-a complex that we took elephant rides up to get to the top (two elephant rides in one year, not bad...not bad at all!) that was built in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput commander of Akbar's army. We could have spent all day exploring this HUGE fort...but alas, more sights were yet to be seen!
2) City Palace: a palace complex including courtyards, gardens, and buildings full of exhibits containing royal costumes, shawls, weapons, and ceremony halls. My highlight was getting my palm & face read by a older gentleman who learned the trade from his father, and his father before him. He told me some pretty spot-on stuff...and answered some questions I have about my future career (yes, I am going to get a job after all of this travel!), and marriage. According to his predictions, 28 will be a big year for me and my husband-to-be!
3) Bazaar: Block after block of shawls, kitchen utensils, shoes, purses, clothes, fruit stands, and camel leather products...So my bargaining skills have definitely improved! I'm trying not to buy too much (considering I'm traveling for 6 months and my backpack is already full enough!) but I couldn't pass up an elephant wall hanging! :)
4) Hawa Mahal: In the "Top 1,000 Places To See Before You Die" book...YES! Love crossing stuff like that off my list! Feminism at it's best, well, for 1799 at least...Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh constructed this five-story structure to enable to ladies of the royal household to watch Jaipur life and the processions of the city. It's only decorated on the front side...but it's absolutely stunning. Millions of tiny glass windows and delicate shutters. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawa_Mahal
5) Jaipur Blue Pottery: Jaipur specializes in blue-glazed pottery with floral and geometric designs. I could have bought the whole store!! But only a few of you lucky people will be receiving such beautiful gifts...
The next day we traveled 5 hours by car back to Delhi to catch our flight to Amritsar, which ended up being delayed...and delayed...and delayed...apparently this happens A LOT in India. After our 12 hour journey, we made it safely to Amritsar.
Amritsar Population: 1.01 million
After the intense tourist-driven Golden Triangle (Delhi-Agra-Jaipur), Amritsar was a breath of (not so) fresh air. Granted, it is still a big Indian city...with diesel fumes, crazy rickshaw drivers, and touts waiting to snag their next deal...but it is about 5 notches down from the utter insanity of the Golden Triangle. And for that, I'm grateful!
1) Golden Temple: Whoa. I mean...WHOA! Pretty much I think this gold-plated gurdwara has made it to my top ten favorite (man-made) structures. Maybe I should write my own "1,000 Places To See Before You Die"? Amritsar, and more specifically the Gold Temple, is the holiest place for people of the Sikh religion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sikhism Finally, people who smile back at my huge Texan grin!! What a relief (and blessing) from the eye-torching stare downs! Upon entering the Golden Temple, we had to leave our shoes at the shoe check (out of respect, of course)...and give 'em a good wash in the recycled foot-washing-water. Basically the actual temple is in the middle of a holy pool (however, you'd probably get a holy-lot of diseases if you actually swam in it), which is surrounded by a marble walkway and all enclosed by large marble walls and towers. The complex also has a museum, langar (community dining hall), and free sleeping quarters.
We explored the entirety of the property...and honestly, I could have spent all day there, taking it all in & people watching. Sikhs from all over the world visit the Golden Temple to pay respects to their founding 10 gurus...and of course, to dine at the FREE community mess hall. We had dinner there, and let me tell you: it was amazingly good! The whole dining experience is like a well-oiled machine, run completely by volunteers who cook, serve, and clean. You could spend hours just watching the process unfold. It's been estimated that they feed about 10,000 people A DAY!!! (and up to 60,000 during holidays and festivals!)...now that my friends, is a shit load of people!
We also ventured into the actual temple and joined in for a little mediation time to the sounds of the priests continuously chanting in Gurmukhi from the Sikh holy book by loudspeakers, which can be heard all over the complex. My experience of the chanting had a trance-like effect...and was so calmly! We sat and chatted with a young Sikh guy for a good half an hour about his religion, family, work, and school life. He probably had the best English of anyone we've talked to thus far...and let me tell you, I'm grateful for that!
2) India-Pakistan Border at Attari-Wagah for the border-closing ceremony: Yes, I said it...Pakistan. The border is about an hour away from Amritsar and every day people make the trek to view the spectacle that is the closing-of-the-border ceremony. This extremely theatrical show includes both Indian and Pakistani military members meeting to lower their respective flags, engage in sing-offs, and demonstrate the most ridiculous high-kicking (Caity, you'd be SOOO impressed!!!) and flag parading. The laughs I had definitely made it worth the crammed bus ride!
And if you're reading still...you're a saint. So that's pretty much my first week in India in a nutshell. Today we made the 6 hour journey up north to the Tibetan refugee area of India to a small town named McLeod Ganj; we'll be here for five days...and I think I just might be in heaven! But you'll hear about that in the next one :)
Thanks for sharing in my experiences!
Much love,
Ilene
Delhi Population: 12.8 million
After arriving late last Thursday evening, Friday was spent organizing our trip with a government travel agency and doing a little bit of touring around the city. The hot spots included:
1) Humayun's Tomb: a 16th century Persian-style (the first of its kind!) tomb built by the Mughal emperor Humayun...it's completely made with red sandstone and white marble, which is said to symbolize the merging of the Persian and local cultures. Needless to say, it was beautiful. And...oddly enough, there were Jewish stars lining the entire structure. Queen Esther was a Persian Jew...maybe it was built by her grandfather?!?!
2) India Gate: this HUGE gate commemorates the 90,000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who lost their lives while fighting for the British Indian Empire (AKA: the British Raj in World War I & the Third Anglo-Afghan War). I probably would have enjoyed this more had I not been battling the growing nausea...phew, thank you for that free bathroom in the neighboring park! However, the India Gate did provide our first opportunity to talk with Indian friends...tourists from a southern state called Kerala. This older couple were so fascinated with us--probably because we were one of the first white people they've ever seen.
Agra Population: 1,321,410
Agra...geez...I thought Delhi was hectic. Agra was like a humid sauna, heated at 115 degrees, that left me feeling exhausted before we even started the day. But, of course, it was well worth it because Agra is home to the ever spectacular Taj Mahal!
1) Taj Mahal: Our driver Sunder set us up with a tour guide (most likely a business partner of some sort...meaning, Sunder probably got a cut of the money we paid for the tour), Dean. Dean (obviously not his real name...but that's what he told us to call him because his Hindi name was WAY too long & hard for us foreigners to pronounce) was a pretty knowledgeable guy and showed us all of the great picture spots. What I can tell you about the Taj Mahal is that it is even more shock & awe than you imagine it to be. The Mughal emperor Shah Jahan, who actually built this mausoleum as a memorial for his second wife, Mumtaz Mahal, said of the TM: "it made the sun and the moon shed tears from their eyes"...and, after seeing it, I believe it!
The TM took 22 years and over 20,000 people to complete. It consists of three different types of building techniques: in-lay, embossing, & screens. Walking through and drinking in the magnificence of the Taj, I couldn't help but be humbled by the intricate and detailed work of all of those Indian and Central Asian workers who dedicated their lives to this piece of art.
Besides the actual tomb site, the TM also includes 8 gardens (fully symmetrical), a mosque and a guest house. The place was crawling with tourists, both local & foreign...but the best were the lawn maintenance crew cutting the grass with SHEARS! Can you imagine?!?! No tracker lawnmowers here!
After our Taj tour, we got a private demo on the in-lay work. And unfortunately for me, I got sucked into buying (what turned out to be) $118 Taj-like marble coasters. Oy vey. Lesson #1: never do that again. Dad & Debra, hope you like your gift!
2) Agra Fort: originally intended as a military structure in 1565, but later turned into a prison where Shah Jahan's son locked him up for 8 years! Geez, talk about lack of respect for your elders! Overall, a pretty sweet fort...plus, we got some great views of the Taj here as well. I will say that the BEST part of our time at the Agra Fort had to be the 30 minute wanna-be conversation with Kailash, an Indian guy (probably about our age) who was from a small village. He tried so so so so SO hard to speak in English with us...but overall it was just a bunch of sign language, smiles, and head nods. We did get his picture though and he wanted ones with us.
On a side note: here in India, as a white person, you're either the target of intense, piercing stare-downs (especially for me--as a white woman), or the paparazzi. I swear, once you give the ok to have your picture taken with one Indian, a swarm attacks you with flashes of the camera. They want you to hold their babies, to pose with their wives, or to take individual shots. It's hilarious! You'd think we were Britney Spears and JT!
On the way to Jaipur...
1) Fatehpur Sikri: Population 28,750
Here we had a roadside stop to tour the Jama Masjid mosque (and there is also a palace, but we were too overwhelmed with the Indian paparazzi and the rain that we cut our touring short). This mosque was built in 1571 to commemorate Emperor Akbar's military victory in the Indian state of Gujarat.
2) Monkey Temple: This temple complex was built to honor the Hindu deity, Hanuman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanuman...and is home to a gabillion monkeys! We bought some peanuts and feed them right out of our hands--and atop our heads & shoulders!
Jaipur Population: 2.63 million
Everything in Jaipur...all of the buildings, homes, restaurants, etc. etc. are painted salmon-pink--a color apparently associated with hospitality. It's just as much of a hustle and bustle as Agra & Delhi: touts trying to sell you things everywhere, street food vendors (we had our first experience with street food here...samosas! Delicious!), and kids following you for half an hour trying to convince you to give them money (yes, a little girl--probably about 9 years old--stuck to our sides for half an hour, with her hand out and puppy dog eyes, begging for money. Aye, that was hard...really hard).
1) Amber Fort: (Shout out to Amber Tacke! What what! Thought about you a lot here, girl! Hope your ACL heals quickly!) Definitely my FAVORITE fort we've seen so far! It's a massive maze-of-a complex that we took elephant rides up to get to the top (two elephant rides in one year, not bad...not bad at all!) that was built in 1592 by Maharaja Man Singh, the Rajput commander of Akbar's army. We could have spent all day exploring this HUGE fort...but alas, more sights were yet to be seen!
2) City Palace: a palace complex including courtyards, gardens, and buildings full of exhibits containing royal costumes, shawls, weapons, and ceremony halls. My highlight was getting my palm & face read by a older gentleman who learned the trade from his father, and his father before him. He told me some pretty spot-on stuff...and answered some questions I have about my future career (yes, I am going to get a job after all of this travel!), and marriage. According to his predictions, 28 will be a big year for me and my husband-to-be!
3) Bazaar: Block after block of shawls, kitchen utensils, shoes, purses, clothes, fruit stands, and camel leather products...So my bargaining skills have definitely improved! I'm trying not to buy too much (considering I'm traveling for 6 months and my backpack is already full enough!) but I couldn't pass up an elephant wall hanging! :)
4) Hawa Mahal: In the "Top 1,000 Places To See Before You Die" book...YES! Love crossing stuff like that off my list! Feminism at it's best, well, for 1799 at least...Maharaja Sawaj Pratap Singh constructed this five-story structure to enable to ladies of the royal household to watch Jaipur life and the processions of the city. It's only decorated on the front side...but it's absolutely stunning. Millions of tiny glass windows and delicate shutters. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawa_Mahal
5) Jaipur Blue Pottery: Jaipur specializes in blue-glazed pottery with floral and geometric designs. I could have bought the whole store!! But only a few of you lucky people will be receiving such beautiful gifts...
The next day we traveled 5 hours by car back to Delhi to catch our flight to Amritsar, which ended up being delayed...and delayed...and delayed...apparently this happens A LOT in India. After our 12 hour journey, we made it safely to Amritsar.
Amritsar Population: 1.01 million
After the intense tourist-driven Golden Triangle (Delhi-Agra-Jaipur), Amritsar was a breath of (not so) fresh air. Granted, it is still a big Indian city...with diesel fumes, crazy rickshaw drivers, and touts waiting to snag their next deal...but it is about 5 notches down from the utter insanity of the Golden Triangle. And for that, I'm grateful!
1) Golden Temple: Whoa. I mean...WHOA! Pretty much I think this gold-plated gurdwara has made it to my top ten favorite (man-made) structures. Maybe I should write my own "1,000 Places To See Before You Die"? Amritsar, and more specifically the Gold Temple, is the holiest place for people of the Sikh religion. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sikhism Finally, people who smile back at my huge Texan grin!! What a relief (and blessing) from the eye-torching stare downs! Upon entering the Golden Temple, we had to leave our shoes at the shoe check (out of respect, of course)...and give 'em a good wash in the recycled foot-washing-water. Basically the actual temple is in the middle of a holy pool (however, you'd probably get a holy-lot of diseases if you actually swam in it), which is surrounded by a marble walkway and all enclosed by large marble walls and towers. The complex also has a museum, langar (community dining hall), and free sleeping quarters.
We explored the entirety of the property...and honestly, I could have spent all day there, taking it all in & people watching. Sikhs from all over the world visit the Golden Temple to pay respects to their founding 10 gurus...and of course, to dine at the FREE community mess hall. We had dinner there, and let me tell you: it was amazingly good! The whole dining experience is like a well-oiled machine, run completely by volunteers who cook, serve, and clean. You could spend hours just watching the process unfold. It's been estimated that they feed about 10,000 people A DAY!!! (and up to 60,000 during holidays and festivals!)...now that my friends, is a shit load of people!
We also ventured into the actual temple and joined in for a little mediation time to the sounds of the priests continuously chanting in Gurmukhi from the Sikh holy book by loudspeakers, which can be heard all over the complex. My experience of the chanting had a trance-like effect...and was so calmly! We sat and chatted with a young Sikh guy for a good half an hour about his religion, family, work, and school life. He probably had the best English of anyone we've talked to thus far...and let me tell you, I'm grateful for that!
2) India-Pakistan Border at Attari-Wagah for the border-closing ceremony: Yes, I said it...Pakistan. The border is about an hour away from Amritsar and every day people make the trek to view the spectacle that is the closing-of-the-border ceremony. This extremely theatrical show includes both Indian and Pakistani military members meeting to lower their respective flags, engage in sing-offs, and demonstrate the most ridiculous high-kicking (Caity, you'd be SOOO impressed!!!) and flag parading. The laughs I had definitely made it worth the crammed bus ride!
And if you're reading still...you're a saint. So that's pretty much my first week in India in a nutshell. Today we made the 6 hour journey up north to the Tibetan refugee area of India to a small town named McLeod Ganj; we'll be here for five days...and I think I just might be in heaven! But you'll hear about that in the next one :)
Thanks for sharing in my experiences!
Much love,
Ilene
Sunday, September 19, 2010
First Impressions
Brandon & I worked with a travel agency to arrange transport, accommodations, and guides for our tour through the Golden Triangle: Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur. http://www.goldentriangleindia.net/ This has been hugely helpful as this circuit is the biggest and most famous Indian tourist destination which means there are a million touts (locals trying to sell you guides/tours/accommodations/meals/souvenirs/etc. etc.) and that equals BIG time rip-offs and added stress. So for the ease and hassle-free early India travel experience, we decided to use a legit agency to help us figure it all out.
This has translated into lots of time in our private car (with Sunder, our driver) driving from city to city...rather than taking the train. I was kinda bummed at first, because I felt like it would decrease our chances of interacting with locals and/or other tourists, but I actually have really enjoyed watching the pulse of these cities through the window; breeze flowing through my hair (oh yeah, and dust particles in my eyes and burning trash smell attacking my nostrils...but hey, you win some, you lose some). But seriously, if I can tell you one thing about India that I've learned so far, it's this: YOU THINK YOUR TRAFFIC IS BAD?!?! COME TO INDIA!
Weaving through the cluster-f&*@ of cars, trucks, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians, three-wheeled "tuk tuks" & rickshaws takes the patience of a saint.
Traffic in India has a harmonious chaos to it: I seriously don't know how there aren't accidents like every 5 meters because...honestly...there are 2,000 people fighting for space on the road at any given time! I sat in the back our of car yesterday curious to know the rate of high blood pressure in India...and more specifically, the blood pressure of those tuk-tuck, rickshaw, and cab drivers...But they make it work. And no one seems to be stressed out or pissed off whenever they're cut off by the truck driver...or made to wait to cross the street for a long line of cars. And the horn honking?!?! It puts New Yorkers to shame. It's like a symphony of honking, beeping, hooting, and jingling...But again, no one is flipping of their road-side neighbor or spitting out curse words. Instead, the Indian horn honking isn't really a "F-you, get out of my way!" type of honk...but rather, a "Hey friend, watch out because I'm coming up on your right and I don't want to accidentally run into you in case you wanted to switch lanes" type of honk. Maybe this whole idea of karma has really sunk in at such a deep level that horrendous traffic can actually be peaceful and friendly?!?!...All I know is, I'm grateful (and surprised) that we've made it as far as we have without a scratch, dint, or middle finger.
Other exciting news on the streets of India: the people! Wow...what a colorful and beautiful bunch. From the bright and lively saris and salwar kameez of the Indian women carrying babies, to the long-legged, high-waisted Indian men (I swear, they are all so freaking long and lean!) meeting in their shops for business, to the family of three atop their motorcycle zipping by, the bright white locks of the elderly gentleman sipping chai, or the kids in bright blue school uniforms walking, smiling & laughing together...the streets of India have continued to amaze me. I think on our 4 hour drive from Agra to Jaipur today I must have stared out the window for a good 3 hours before taking a little snooze. No music, no reading...just people watching. It's amazing!
But it has left my curiosity hungry for some hardcore interaction. I want to know EVERYTHING!! What's the education system like? What do they think of the political leaders? What is their health care system like? What do they dream and hope for?...maybe it's the Social Worker in me...but I want some serious in-depth convo. Hopefully I'll get that soon. Until then, I'll just continue to enjoy my roti and daal...and call it a night.
This has translated into lots of time in our private car (with Sunder, our driver) driving from city to city...rather than taking the train. I was kinda bummed at first, because I felt like it would decrease our chances of interacting with locals and/or other tourists, but I actually have really enjoyed watching the pulse of these cities through the window; breeze flowing through my hair (oh yeah, and dust particles in my eyes and burning trash smell attacking my nostrils...but hey, you win some, you lose some). But seriously, if I can tell you one thing about India that I've learned so far, it's this: YOU THINK YOUR TRAFFIC IS BAD?!?! COME TO INDIA!
Weaving through the cluster-f&*@ of cars, trucks, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians, three-wheeled "tuk tuks" & rickshaws takes the patience of a saint.
Traffic in India has a harmonious chaos to it: I seriously don't know how there aren't accidents like every 5 meters because...honestly...there are 2,000 people fighting for space on the road at any given time! I sat in the back our of car yesterday curious to know the rate of high blood pressure in India...and more specifically, the blood pressure of those tuk-tuck, rickshaw, and cab drivers...But they make it work. And no one seems to be stressed out or pissed off whenever they're cut off by the truck driver...or made to wait to cross the street for a long line of cars. And the horn honking?!?! It puts New Yorkers to shame. It's like a symphony of honking, beeping, hooting, and jingling...But again, no one is flipping of their road-side neighbor or spitting out curse words. Instead, the Indian horn honking isn't really a "F-you, get out of my way!" type of honk...but rather, a "Hey friend, watch out because I'm coming up on your right and I don't want to accidentally run into you in case you wanted to switch lanes" type of honk. Maybe this whole idea of karma has really sunk in at such a deep level that horrendous traffic can actually be peaceful and friendly?!?!...All I know is, I'm grateful (and surprised) that we've made it as far as we have without a scratch, dint, or middle finger.
Other exciting news on the streets of India: the people! Wow...what a colorful and beautiful bunch. From the bright and lively saris and salwar kameez of the Indian women carrying babies, to the long-legged, high-waisted Indian men (I swear, they are all so freaking long and lean!) meeting in their shops for business, to the family of three atop their motorcycle zipping by, the bright white locks of the elderly gentleman sipping chai, or the kids in bright blue school uniforms walking, smiling & laughing together...the streets of India have continued to amaze me. I think on our 4 hour drive from Agra to Jaipur today I must have stared out the window for a good 3 hours before taking a little snooze. No music, no reading...just people watching. It's amazing!
But it has left my curiosity hungry for some hardcore interaction. I want to know EVERYTHING!! What's the education system like? What do they think of the political leaders? What is their health care system like? What do they dream and hope for?...maybe it's the Social Worker in me...but I want some serious in-depth convo. Hopefully I'll get that soon. Until then, I'll just continue to enjoy my roti and daal...and call it a night.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Namaste! Welcome to Delhi!
I made it safe & sound to Delhi about 4 hours ago (it's now 11:15 pm on Thursday here). After flying from Austin to Houston to Newark, I boarded the plane and found my window seat next to a young Indian man who couldn't be more friendly, helpful, and willing to talk about his beloved country. He suggested a great Indian Bollywood chick flick to watch called Love Aaj Kal (totally check it out if you can!), and after that...it was bedtime! Thanks to melatonin (and not sleeping but 30 minutes the night before) I thankfully slept the ENTIRE FLIGHT! That aside, I am still exhausted and after writing this blog, I'm headed to bed.
Arriving in Delhi was seemless: the flight was early; my bag came through as soon as I got to the carousel; plus the guy I met on the plane selflessly handed me about 900rupees to have, which is like $25...wow, I heard Indian culture was fueled by hospitality and genorosity...but I was completely amazed by that!
The hotel that Brandon & I are staying at was supposed to send a driver to pick me up (for a free shuttle service), but at first go-round I couldn't find my name on any of the (million) signs. So I talked with a young man from another hotel who called my hotel. No answer. Hmm...strange. Tried the cell phone of the driver. No answer. Hmm...even stranger. After another go-round, no "Ilene Solomon" signage...finally on the 3rd go-round (3rd time is always the charm, right?) I saw a handwritten sign with my name and the hotel's name on it. But, the ride wasn't free. He said it would cost 550 rupees. Hmm...strange. As I stepped back from the situation, my intuition said "Uhh, thanks for the ride, but no thanks" and my research reading said that there would be a prepaid taxi stand available to purchase safe and cheap rides. Luckily I found one right away and only paid 320 rupees. (I have a feeling that all those warnings about getting ripped off here are definitely legit.)
After a 25 minute cab ride (yea, India is cheap...it only cost me $7) I checked into the hotel and found Brandon. Yay for the Western-style toilet in our hotel room...I had pretty much fully embraced my last bathroom visit in the Newark airport with the seated-flush toilets, so I was pleasantly surprised with this special treat! Brandon said that we also have hot water! Woo hoo...things are looking bright already! :)
Brandon spent the day today researching tours and comparing prices, so it looks like we're off to tour the Golden Triangle tomorrow (Delhi-Agra-Jaipur)...but I'll keep yall posted soon!
Namaste!
Arriving in Delhi was seemless: the flight was early; my bag came through as soon as I got to the carousel; plus the guy I met on the plane selflessly handed me about 900rupees to have, which is like $25...wow, I heard Indian culture was fueled by hospitality and genorosity...but I was completely amazed by that!
The hotel that Brandon & I are staying at was supposed to send a driver to pick me up (for a free shuttle service), but at first go-round I couldn't find my name on any of the (million) signs. So I talked with a young man from another hotel who called my hotel. No answer. Hmm...strange. Tried the cell phone of the driver. No answer. Hmm...even stranger. After another go-round, no "Ilene Solomon" signage...finally on the 3rd go-round (3rd time is always the charm, right?) I saw a handwritten sign with my name and the hotel's name on it. But, the ride wasn't free. He said it would cost 550 rupees. Hmm...strange. As I stepped back from the situation, my intuition said "Uhh, thanks for the ride, but no thanks" and my research reading said that there would be a prepaid taxi stand available to purchase safe and cheap rides. Luckily I found one right away and only paid 320 rupees. (I have a feeling that all those warnings about getting ripped off here are definitely legit.)
After a 25 minute cab ride (yea, India is cheap...it only cost me $7) I checked into the hotel and found Brandon. Yay for the Western-style toilet in our hotel room...I had pretty much fully embraced my last bathroom visit in the Newark airport with the seated-flush toilets, so I was pleasantly surprised with this special treat! Brandon said that we also have hot water! Woo hoo...things are looking bright already! :)
Brandon spent the day today researching tours and comparing prices, so it looks like we're off to tour the Golden Triangle tomorrow (Delhi-Agra-Jaipur)...but I'll keep yall posted soon!
Namaste!
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
....and I'm off!
The current time is 5:56 am...and that means it is really early or really late...depending upon your perspective. Unfortunately for me, my perspective is telling me that it's really, really, really late.
I kinda have this bad habit: procrastination. Though it definitely leaves for some sleepless nights, it usually helps fuel my actions into completion. I remember when I left for my summer working/living/traveling in Israel and my friend Maria came to pick me up from my house to take me to the airport. Guess what? I was still stuffing things into my backpack and checking things off the list. And when I went to South Africa, I didn't even have my freaking visa until about 4 days before I was scheduled to leave...so, I'm grateful that I've at least improved a little bit for this trip. (I'm so proud: I got my visa 2 months in advance! Talk about improvement!)
But...I did just finish the last bit of organizing and packing for my big Eastern adventure; and shit, I'm tired. However, the good thing is that I have a twenty and some-odd-number hour flight ahead of me...where I'll pop in some melatonin and sleep soundly on the plane. Thanks to Continental Airlines, I'm flying from Austin to Houston then from Houston to Newark and then from Newark 15 hours later...straight to Delhi. Brandon (my friend who I will be traveling with for the first month) left for India yesterday (or today, depending upon whether you've been to bed tonight or not...) so I'll be meeting him at the hotel on Thursday night, which will be Thursday morning for yall back in the States. India is 10 1/2 hours ahead of Austin time--they do the half hour difference in order to keep the whole country in one time zone instead of splitting it up into two. So hopefully I'll sleep a lot on the plane and then shower and go straight to sleep when I get to the hotel in Delhi.
Today I spent my day running about 5 gabillion errands and trying to organize myself and my life before I head out for 168 days...but, as life goes, I didn't get to accomplish everything I wanted to do. It's times like these when I wish there were 50 hours in a day, instead of 24. BUT, as yogis & yoginis strive to do: find acceptance...so, I am grateful that I actually finished packing before my flight, with enough spare time to write this blog entry.
I'm only bringing a travel backpack (which, whoa...is kinda stuffed to the brim. I'm actually bringing very little clothes; it's the toiletries & 2500 different types of pills, vitamins, medications, and malaria meds that I have to bring that is taking up all of the room!), a regular backpack (filled with a hundred books...why didn't I invest in a Kindle again?), a purse, and my yoga mat.
As I sign off for tonight/this morning...I'm filled with gratitude, happiness, anxiety & fear of the unknown, and lots of excitement. For the past couple of weeks, the fear has definitely been a major player in my mind, but thankfully, yesterday brought a strong sense of calm and peace within me. I am confident in my mind, body, heart, and spirit that this is exactly what I'm supposed to be doing in my life right now...and for that, I'm grateful.
So, I'll leave you with some words from a very beautiful, loving, and wise friend of mine that she wrote to me in a card: "This little gift (a key chain) symbolizes home--know that you carry it with you, its not a location or place, it's your heart...put it on your backpack so you never feel like your home is anywhere but inside of you."
I guess my Mom's country-bumpkin sign that reads: "Home is Where the Heart is" is pretty accurate after all.
....and I'm off...to shower!
I kinda have this bad habit: procrastination. Though it definitely leaves for some sleepless nights, it usually helps fuel my actions into completion. I remember when I left for my summer working/living/traveling in Israel and my friend Maria came to pick me up from my house to take me to the airport. Guess what? I was still stuffing things into my backpack and checking things off the list. And when I went to South Africa, I didn't even have my freaking visa until about 4 days before I was scheduled to leave...so, I'm grateful that I've at least improved a little bit for this trip. (I'm so proud: I got my visa 2 months in advance! Talk about improvement!)
But...I did just finish the last bit of organizing and packing for my big Eastern adventure; and shit, I'm tired. However, the good thing is that I have a twenty and some-odd-number hour flight ahead of me...where I'll pop in some melatonin and sleep soundly on the plane. Thanks to Continental Airlines, I'm flying from Austin to Houston then from Houston to Newark and then from Newark 15 hours later...straight to Delhi. Brandon (my friend who I will be traveling with for the first month) left for India yesterday (or today, depending upon whether you've been to bed tonight or not...) so I'll be meeting him at the hotel on Thursday night, which will be Thursday morning for yall back in the States. India is 10 1/2 hours ahead of Austin time--they do the half hour difference in order to keep the whole country in one time zone instead of splitting it up into two. So hopefully I'll sleep a lot on the plane and then shower and go straight to sleep when I get to the hotel in Delhi.
Today I spent my day running about 5 gabillion errands and trying to organize myself and my life before I head out for 168 days...but, as life goes, I didn't get to accomplish everything I wanted to do. It's times like these when I wish there were 50 hours in a day, instead of 24. BUT, as yogis & yoginis strive to do: find acceptance...so, I am grateful that I actually finished packing before my flight, with enough spare time to write this blog entry.
I'm only bringing a travel backpack (which, whoa...is kinda stuffed to the brim. I'm actually bringing very little clothes; it's the toiletries & 2500 different types of pills, vitamins, medications, and malaria meds that I have to bring that is taking up all of the room!), a regular backpack (filled with a hundred books...why didn't I invest in a Kindle again?), a purse, and my yoga mat.
As I sign off for tonight/this morning...I'm filled with gratitude, happiness, anxiety & fear of the unknown, and lots of excitement. For the past couple of weeks, the fear has definitely been a major player in my mind, but thankfully, yesterday brought a strong sense of calm and peace within me. I am confident in my mind, body, heart, and spirit that this is exactly what I'm supposed to be doing in my life right now...and for that, I'm grateful.
So, I'll leave you with some words from a very beautiful, loving, and wise friend of mine that she wrote to me in a card: "This little gift (a key chain) symbolizes home--know that you carry it with you, its not a location or place, it's your heart...put it on your backpack so you never feel like your home is anywhere but inside of you."
I guess my Mom's country-bumpkin sign that reads: "Home is Where the Heart is" is pretty accurate after all.
....and I'm off...to shower!
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Discovery: The background story
Recently, I was introduced to an excellent Cat Stevens song...and it goes a little something like this:
Well, if you want to sing out, sing out
And if you want to be free, be free
'cause there's a million things to be
You know that there are
And if you want to live high, live high
And if you want to live low, live low
'cause there's a million ways to go
You know that there are
You can do what you want
The opportunity's on
And if you can find a new way
You can do it today
You can make it all true
And you can make it undo
You see ah ah ah
Is easy ah ah ah
You only need to know
Well if you want to say yes, say yes
And if you want to say no, say no
'cause there's a million ways to go
You know that there are
And if you want to be me, be me
And if you want to be you, be you
'cause there's a million things to do
You know that there are
Well, if you want to sing out, sing out
And if you want to be free, be free
'cause there's a million things to be
You know that there are
And for your listening pleasures:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDq36YD1ESM
As I am preparing to embark on, what will certainly be, a transformative journey through India, Thailand & other parts of southeast Asia...this song speaks exactly to the reason that I am taking this trip.
Rewind back to December 2009, if you will: Picture me in a peaceful yoga studio down in Austin, TX at a place called the Amala Foundation http://www.amalafoundation.org/home.html for my routine Sunday morning "Women's Movement Mediation" (that's right...an hour & a half of complete nonverbal expression AKA DANCING!!! with a group of truly inspiring and beautiful women), when the leader, Elissa, asked us to close the last session of 2009 by forming a circle. She instructed the group to meditate on an intention, just one word, for the upcoming new year. As the other women shared meaningful words like: "joy," peace," "happiness," and "love"...when my turn came along...my heart genuinely spoke the word: "DISCOVERY"...and that is really how this whole thing got started.
So as I ushered in 2010...the first chapter of my year of DISCOVERY began with preparations for my final field placement through the UT School of Social Work: I was heading to South Africa to intern at an orphanage (Botshabelo) for children, birth to young adulthood, who have been orphaned by HIV/AIDS or economic hardships. http://www.botshabelo.org/ After spending an entire semester (mid-January to mid-May) working, living, and traveling in South Africa...well, there are really no words to describe just how incredible of an opportunity that truly was. The other intern, Ayla, & I like to say this about our experience at Botshabelo: "Pick an adjective. That's what it was." From joy and gratitude, to heartache and injustice...the emotions I felt covered the spectrum. The discovery attained, not only about working with victims of trauma & oppression, of the South African culture & history, or my role as a social worker; but the discovery also expressed itself through a deep & internal uncovering of my own past, my own story, my own healing.... I guess you could kind of say it was like an existential crisis meets 10 years of therapy mixed in with LOTS of beautifully amazing children... If you want to read more about my time in South Africa, or to see some pictures. Check out my blog that I kept: http://ilenesouthafrica.blogspot.com/
After such an incredible experience, I won't lie...I got the travel bug...BAD! Adjusting back to American life after my time in South Africa turned out to be one of the toughest things I have ever done. In fact, during a span of about 3 1/2 weeks this June/July, I pretty much cried everyday. After being away from the States for such a long time, you honestly forget just how fast-paced, career-driven, money-focused, and isolated our culture is...and, whoa...it was WAAAAYYYY harder coming back to that than it was going over to South Africa where we didn't even have a door on our bathroom!! So at graduation from the Masters of Social Work program at UT...when everyone bombarded me with: "What are going to do now?" "Where are you going to work?" "Do you have a job yet? "What kind of work do you want to do?" My response? "...uhhh, travel?"
It makes sense: When I left Austin for South Africa, I packed up my belongings and currently, still have them stored at my cousin's house (SHOUT OUT TO COUSIN SARAH---YOU'RE THE BEST!)...so I don't have a house, I don't have a job (ok, don't knock JCC Summer Camp Inclusion Counselor, when I worked one-on-one with a kiddo with Autism...it DEFINITELY counted for a job this summer. I probably worked harder than a lot of you. I mean seriously, did you ever have a client yell at you to wipe their butt? Plus, honestly, how many times did you check your facebook during work hours today? :)). But basically, I don't have anything at the present moment tying me anywhere or to anything...so why not? As Cat says...If you want to sing out, sing out...so...I'm following my passion. I'm going to travel.
So the next chapter of my year of DISCOVERY includes an Indian adventure before heading over to Thailand and then exploring other parts of southeast Asia (including, but not limited to: Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia)...and we might throw in a little Belgium for good measure (shout out to Aunt Paula & Cousin Noah!).
Why India? Well....why not?!?!?
If you know me then you'd know that over the last 5 years, I have been on a complete and total life-transformation path. The Ilene of 2010 is much calmer, more spiritually connected, more insightful, greener, and yes, even braver...than ever before. Which is amazing. I am grateful for the opportunity to constantly grow and reevaluate where I am in the present moment and the intentions that I set for the future. This progression is in large part due to the healing and empowering effects of YOGA (which literally means, a "union" or a "joining" of yourself to yourself). And what better place to practice yoga than in it's birthplace: India. Plus, if you've ever read the book, "Eat Pray Love"...pretty much after I read the India part where she woke up every day at 5:30 am to meditate and practice yoga at an ashram, I said to myself, "Hell yea, I'm going to do that one day." And lo and behold, I'm actually gonna do it.
The first month there, I will be traveling with a friend of mine from Austin (who had originally planned a trip to India while I was still in South Africa. When I saw that he booked a ticket on facebook, I immediately clicked the "Like" button and commented: "What?!? India?? Excuse me, we have to talk about this when I get back to Austin!"). Sure enough, I booked a ticket and the planning began. We have a rough itinerary set for our month of travel together...hitting up the Taj Mahal, burning Ghats, Ganges, Mumbai, and of course, the beaches of Goa. And don't worry, we are FOR SURE going to audition to be in a Bollywood film! :)
Then the next two and a half months I will be traveling solo; where the beginning of vipassana mediation http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vipassana_meditation will begin. While I don't have anything booked, I do have tons of recommendations and suggestions from friends and friends of friends (THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO GAVE THEIR GUIDANCE & HELP)...I am leaving myself open to the process, but have been in contact with a few ashrams that I am interested in visiting. Plus, I'm going to try to be at a retreat with the DALAI LAMA on my birthday. WHAT?!?! Yeah...Dalai Lama on my birthday.
And then?.....Well, somehow my 2 month trip to India extended itself to a 6 month adventure when I found out that some people that I worked with at the orphanage in South Africa will be volunteering in Thailand at the end of December-mid January...and I figured, well, I'm already over there, I might as well meet them! We will be volunteering for two weeks at an elephant sanctuary and teaching English to children in a Thai village. SO freaking excited. Check out the Power of One Program through Blue Star of Hope (based out of Colorado) http://bluestarofhope.org/ Afterward, my very dear friend Kurt Hubble will be making his first international appearance, and meeting me over in Thailand for some world exploration. We plan to hit up the islands of Thailand first then make our way along the southeast Asia circuit. But don't worry Jackie and Ben, I PROMISE I'll be back home in the good ole US of A in time for your wedding!
I invite you all to (and would be so humbled if you) join me in following my passion for traveling, learning, growing, yoga, meditation, cross-cultural exchange, all things southeast Asian, and most important, DISCOVERY. I will try to update as often as possible at various internet cafes throughout my adventure. All-in-all, I hope this experience will help to inspire YOU to follow YOUR passions whatever they may be for you...because, as Cat says, if you want to sing out, sing out!
In the name of DISCOVERY,
Namaste!
Well, if you want to sing out, sing out
And if you want to be free, be free
'cause there's a million things to be
You know that there are
And if you want to live high, live high
And if you want to live low, live low
'cause there's a million ways to go
You know that there are
You can do what you want
The opportunity's on
And if you can find a new way
You can do it today
You can make it all true
And you can make it undo
You see ah ah ah
Is easy ah ah ah
You only need to know
Well if you want to say yes, say yes
And if you want to say no, say no
'cause there's a million ways to go
You know that there are
And if you want to be me, be me
And if you want to be you, be you
'cause there's a million things to do
You know that there are
Well, if you want to sing out, sing out
And if you want to be free, be free
'cause there's a million things to be
You know that there are
And for your listening pleasures:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDq36YD1ESM
As I am preparing to embark on, what will certainly be, a transformative journey through India, Thailand & other parts of southeast Asia...this song speaks exactly to the reason that I am taking this trip.
Rewind back to December 2009, if you will: Picture me in a peaceful yoga studio down in Austin, TX at a place called the Amala Foundation http://www.amalafoundation.org/home.html for my routine Sunday morning "Women's Movement Mediation" (that's right...an hour & a half of complete nonverbal expression AKA DANCING!!! with a group of truly inspiring and beautiful women), when the leader, Elissa, asked us to close the last session of 2009 by forming a circle. She instructed the group to meditate on an intention, just one word, for the upcoming new year. As the other women shared meaningful words like: "joy," peace," "happiness," and "love"...when my turn came along...my heart genuinely spoke the word: "DISCOVERY"...and that is really how this whole thing got started.
So as I ushered in 2010...the first chapter of my year of DISCOVERY began with preparations for my final field placement through the UT School of Social Work: I was heading to South Africa to intern at an orphanage (Botshabelo) for children, birth to young adulthood, who have been orphaned by HIV/AIDS or economic hardships. http://www.botshabelo.org/ After spending an entire semester (mid-January to mid-May) working, living, and traveling in South Africa...well, there are really no words to describe just how incredible of an opportunity that truly was. The other intern, Ayla, & I like to say this about our experience at Botshabelo: "Pick an adjective. That's what it was." From joy and gratitude, to heartache and injustice...the emotions I felt covered the spectrum. The discovery attained, not only about working with victims of trauma & oppression, of the South African culture & history, or my role as a social worker; but the discovery also expressed itself through a deep & internal uncovering of my own past, my own story, my own healing.... I guess you could kind of say it was like an existential crisis meets 10 years of therapy mixed in with LOTS of beautifully amazing children... If you want to read more about my time in South Africa, or to see some pictures. Check out my blog that I kept: http://ilenesouthafrica.blogspot.com/
After such an incredible experience, I won't lie...I got the travel bug...BAD! Adjusting back to American life after my time in South Africa turned out to be one of the toughest things I have ever done. In fact, during a span of about 3 1/2 weeks this June/July, I pretty much cried everyday. After being away from the States for such a long time, you honestly forget just how fast-paced, career-driven, money-focused, and isolated our culture is...and, whoa...it was WAAAAYYYY harder coming back to that than it was going over to South Africa where we didn't even have a door on our bathroom!! So at graduation from the Masters of Social Work program at UT...when everyone bombarded me with: "What are going to do now?" "Where are you going to work?" "Do you have a job yet? "What kind of work do you want to do?" My response? "...uhhh, travel?"
It makes sense: When I left Austin for South Africa, I packed up my belongings and currently, still have them stored at my cousin's house (SHOUT OUT TO COUSIN SARAH---YOU'RE THE BEST!)...so I don't have a house, I don't have a job (ok, don't knock JCC Summer Camp Inclusion Counselor, when I worked one-on-one with a kiddo with Autism...it DEFINITELY counted for a job this summer. I probably worked harder than a lot of you. I mean seriously, did you ever have a client yell at you to wipe their butt? Plus, honestly, how many times did you check your facebook during work hours today? :)). But basically, I don't have anything at the present moment tying me anywhere or to anything...so why not? As Cat says...If you want to sing out, sing out...so...I'm following my passion. I'm going to travel.
So the next chapter of my year of DISCOVERY includes an Indian adventure before heading over to Thailand and then exploring other parts of southeast Asia (including, but not limited to: Laos, Vietnam, and Cambodia)...and we might throw in a little Belgium for good measure (shout out to Aunt Paula & Cousin Noah!).
Why India? Well....why not?!?!?
If you know me then you'd know that over the last 5 years, I have been on a complete and total life-transformation path. The Ilene of 2010 is much calmer, more spiritually connected, more insightful, greener, and yes, even braver...than ever before. Which is amazing. I am grateful for the opportunity to constantly grow and reevaluate where I am in the present moment and the intentions that I set for the future. This progression is in large part due to the healing and empowering effects of YOGA (which literally means, a "union" or a "joining" of yourself to yourself). And what better place to practice yoga than in it's birthplace: India. Plus, if you've ever read the book, "Eat Pray Love"...pretty much after I read the India part where she woke up every day at 5:30 am to meditate and practice yoga at an ashram, I said to myself, "Hell yea, I'm going to do that one day." And lo and behold, I'm actually gonna do it.
The first month there, I will be traveling with a friend of mine from Austin (who had originally planned a trip to India while I was still in South Africa. When I saw that he booked a ticket on facebook, I immediately clicked the "Like" button and commented: "What?!? India?? Excuse me, we have to talk about this when I get back to Austin!"). Sure enough, I booked a ticket and the planning began. We have a rough itinerary set for our month of travel together...hitting up the Taj Mahal, burning Ghats, Ganges, Mumbai, and of course, the beaches of Goa. And don't worry, we are FOR SURE going to audition to be in a Bollywood film! :)
Then the next two and a half months I will be traveling solo; where the beginning of vipassana mediation http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vipassana_meditation will begin. While I don't have anything booked, I do have tons of recommendations and suggestions from friends and friends of friends (THANK YOU TO EVERYONE WHO GAVE THEIR GUIDANCE & HELP)...I am leaving myself open to the process, but have been in contact with a few ashrams that I am interested in visiting. Plus, I'm going to try to be at a retreat with the DALAI LAMA on my birthday. WHAT?!?! Yeah...Dalai Lama on my birthday.
And then?.....Well, somehow my 2 month trip to India extended itself to a 6 month adventure when I found out that some people that I worked with at the orphanage in South Africa will be volunteering in Thailand at the end of December-mid January...and I figured, well, I'm already over there, I might as well meet them! We will be volunteering for two weeks at an elephant sanctuary and teaching English to children in a Thai village. SO freaking excited. Check out the Power of One Program through Blue Star of Hope (based out of Colorado) http://bluestarofhope.org/ Afterward, my very dear friend Kurt Hubble will be making his first international appearance, and meeting me over in Thailand for some world exploration. We plan to hit up the islands of Thailand first then make our way along the southeast Asia circuit. But don't worry Jackie and Ben, I PROMISE I'll be back home in the good ole US of A in time for your wedding!
I invite you all to (and would be so humbled if you) join me in following my passion for traveling, learning, growing, yoga, meditation, cross-cultural exchange, all things southeast Asian, and most important, DISCOVERY. I will try to update as often as possible at various internet cafes throughout my adventure. All-in-all, I hope this experience will help to inspire YOU to follow YOUR passions whatever they may be for you...because, as Cat says, if you want to sing out, sing out!
In the name of DISCOVERY,
Namaste!
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