"Chai chai chai!" "Coffee coffee coffee!": The Soundtrack Of An Overnight Train

October 5th, 2010; 8:40 pm...first overnight train ride experince in India...and it went a little like this:

Brandon and I arrivedto the train station in Goa, bound for Kerala, a few hours early (didn't want to mess around and risk missing our train). After surveying the departure board (in Hindi)...we obviously still had no clue about where we were supposed to go. Luckily we found the information desk (and they spoke English!!!) where they directed us to our platform. With an hour and a half before our "scheduled" departure time...come on, this is India---rarely are the trains on time...we popped a squat on a wooden bench that must have been built in the 1970s, dropped our luggage and got comfortable. Brandon found a phone to call his parents, which left me alone, manning (or how about womanning) our valuables. Mentally, I stepped away from that moment and found myself with the awareness that I would soon be doing this a lot: sitting alone, watching my stuff, waiting for trains by myself in the darkness of the night. But what I found from within surpised me...no judgements...no fear, no anxiety, not too much bravery or overly confident...just the realization that I would soon be off on my own, exploring; and the knowledg that I can do it. Like actually do it by myself...and enjoy it. There on that train platform, in the middle of India, surrounded by old men hacking up their lungs, stray dogs searching for crumbs of chapati and curry, women quieting crying babies, and young men peeing off the side of the platform onto the tracks...I could do it (not pee off the side of the tracks, but travel alone). In fact, I was doing it.

But...as I've come to find out now (over the last 7 weeks of traveling through India)...you're never truly alone. Not even five minutes had passed after Brandon left to make his call, before a group of high school seniors from the capital city of Kerala (Trivandrum), began the typical Indian-Foreigner dialogue with me:
"Which country?"
"USA. And you?"
"From (fill-in-the-blank). First time in India?"
"Yes, first time."
"You like India?"
"Yes, I like it very much."
"You have children?"
"No, not yet."
"You marry?"
"No, not yet."
"(Look like I have the plege...then a big smile as if to say "no, really. You ARE married, aren't you?") Why not?"
"(uncomfortable laugh...as if there really is an answer to this one other than "uhhhh") Well, just not the right time yet"

The high schoolers (all boys) were on a field trip to Goa with their French teacher...who they introduced us to and we proceeded to repeat the exact conversation as detailed above. Only this time she also wanted to know how long we've been in India, where we have traveled, how long we planned to stay in India, and what type of work we did at home. (also VERY typical questions to be asked). After sharing our detailed life's story, another group of kids (this time middle schoolers from the state over, Karnataka) came by wanting our contact information so they could email us! I swear, you'd think we were the biggest Bollywood stars! These kids were AWESOME!! We shard our favorite music via our mobile phone speakers, talked about their school, teachers, favorite activities, and who their favorite singers are (I was surprised and releaved that none of them had heard of Lady Gaga or Beyonce--maybe Westernization hasn't spread as much as I thought!).

Finally, following a dinner of Lay's masala flavored chips and a Luna bar, we boarded our train and left only 45 minutes after our scheduled departure time. Brandon and I splurged on our tickets and made our way to our 2nd class, air conditioned sleeper seats. This meant that we each had our own tiny little area: with a bed, pocket to place books & a water bottle, and a curtain. (check out the pictures)

Once we settled in our seats...the soundtrack of the trains of India began:

Track one: chai wallahs shouting "Chai! Chai! Chai!" "Samosa! Samosa! Samosa!"
Track two: snoaring old men
Track three: chatter of couples speaking Hindi
Track four: the squeak of the beds as they rattle along with the train
Track five: chains clanking as people climb up and down the latters to reach the top bunk

...it's at times like these that I'm extremely grateful for my iPod and amazing mixes from wonderful friends!!

Around midnight, however, things settled down as people drifted off to sleep...and my melotonin pills kicked in. But no worries, the "Sounds of the Ernakalum Express" started all over again at 6:00 am. What a glorious way to start your day:

"Chai! Chai! Chai! Coffee! Coffee! Coffee! Bread omellete! Bread omellete!"