Sunday, October 17, 2010

Backwaters Of Kerala = The Jungle Book

***Be Kind, Rewind...to October 6-8, 2010***

After journeying overnight on the train, we arrived in Kochi (one of the major cities in the Indian state of Kerala). First things first: a stop at the Vasan Eye Care Center. So, Brandon got himself a gnarly eye infection (we thought it was possibly from the massive amounts of oil they use in Ayurvedic massages) so we asked our driver to find an eye doctor to check him out. Wow, I must say that I was extremely impressed with this eye hospital!!: a four level complex complete with exam rooms, pharmacy, and a waiting room with the latest LCD flat screen tv! The female employees scurried around the place in their matching gray saree uniforms...and the optometrist took a full-length, detailed history and report on Brandon's past and current eye health. Thank Vishu we got him the proper medication...and a few days later, his eyes were goop-free!

But our primary purpose in Kerala was not eye-health...but a trip to the BACKWATERS for an overnight stay on a kettuvallam (Keralan houseboat)!! So, the Keralan backwaters are basically a chain of lagoons and lakes that are linked by canals, both man-made and natural...which are fed by 38 rivers. They are HUGE...and pretty much extend to virtually half the length of the state of Kerala...yea, that's more than 900 km of waterways!! Picture the canals of Venice or Amsterdam...but in the middle of the tropics! Even cooler than this maze of waterways is the fact that in the midst of everything there are even small towns and cities! (And I won't lie...I was really interested to know if/when residents of these backwater cities have neighborhood association meetings!!...I know, such a dork!)

So, our travel agent set Brandon and I up on a three day-two night stay on a the backwaters in our very own, personal kettuvallam (Keralan houseboat). A kettuvallam is pretty much a As you can imagine, these houseboats are basically the prominent tourist attractions in Kerala, especially the backwaters...our houseboat driver estimated that about 600 kettuvallams cruise the backwaters in any given day! And though we didn't see all 600, we did pass by boats shipping rice and fish; taxing backwater residents; transporting children to school; and even carrying people's bicycles alongside them!

Honestly, I could have spent waaaaay more time on our kettuvallam!! It was so peaceful and relaxing to sit out on the cushioned benches and read a book or to enjoy chai at the dining table...and wow! Thanks to our very own houseboat chef...did we eat well!! South Indian (especially Keralan) food is DELICIOUS (and probably my favorite)!! Fish, coconut curries, beetroot dishes, fried bananas with sugar...the list of delicacies goes on and on and on and on...I think I gained about 2 kilos over three days! Brandon and I also took in the sunsets out ontop of the houseboat on the open-air deck...just like heaven...until we saw the BIGGEST BAT I'VE EVER SEEN IN MY LIFE!!! Seriously, I think it was more like a small bear with wings!

The backwaters themselves, seriously, were a tropical paradise: floating by tall palm trees, enormous coconuts and bananas, plush grasses, rice patties, and rushing lagoon waters...I could have swore we were in The Jungle Book! (all we needed was Baloo and Mowgli!) Come to find out, the author of The Jungle Book, Rudyard Kipling, was born in India and spent periods of time in and out of the country, traveling to the state of Kerala!!!...it's all making sense to me now...

Our time on the kettuvallam was truly decedant...I didn't want it to end; but more Keralan adventures were to be had...

Going Going Goa...And My Existential Crisis

After an action-packed couple of days in Mumbai, Brandon & I headed down to India's smallest state, the beach-lined Goa, for some much needed R & R. We spent a grand total of 2 1/2 days there (October 3-5...I know, I know...I'm really far behind on this thing). After we landed at the airport, our driver picked us up & my initial reaction to our new surroundings: TROPICAL LOVELINESS!! Goa reminded me a lot of Belize: tropical climate, palm trees jetting straight out of the dark blue water, and the greenest, most luscious grasses and plants. Driving around Goa I could definitely spot the Portuguese influence: basilicas on every corner, Casa Bernardo/Fernando/Maria guest houses, crosses dotting the streets, names like "St. Anthony's Family Restaurant" and "Sweet Jesus" bus company. The Portuguese arrived here in 1510...seeking control of the region's lucrative spice route. With their conquering came the religious oppression and brutality of the Goan Inquisition. Where you'd normally see shrines of Hindu gods like Shiva, Krishna, or Ganesh...in Goa they have been replaced by pictures of Jesus.

So Goa has a BIG reputation for being THE tourist destination (for both Westerners and Indians alike)...and I'd heard fantastic reviews from other backpackers of this 3701 square kilometer slice of heaven...but to be honest, I think I need to give Goa another try...because I definitely had higher hopes for this little place.

That's not to say that I didn't enjoy my time there; believe me...nothing makes me happier than laying out poolside at a nice beach resort (thank you Bambolim Beach Resort) or underneath an umbrella on the sand among palm tress...

I guess I was just a little disappointed by the HUGE amount of trash floating next to me while body surfing and saddened by the high number of children walking up and down the beach begging tourists (both foreign and local) to buy their shell necklaces or leather braided bracelets. At one point, I think I had six children (all between the ages of 7-12) surrounding me on my beach chair, with their jewelery strewn across my legs, stomach, and chest, reasoning with me: "for you, 25 rupees." "no thank you. I don't want it." "why not? It's good price." "no, it's ok." "ok, you look tomorrow and buy." "why aren't you in school? Stop selling these things and go to school. Do you know show to read or write?" blank stares.... "no. You want to see more necklaces?" "no. Go to school and learn, then you can make lots of money." About 15 minutes of persistence, I caved a bought a bracelet...bad idea! Then they all wanted me to buy from them! Finally I had to get up and go in the polluted water just to get away.

When I returned to my chair, not 10 minutes went past before a group of teenaged girls with blankets and sarongs came by...boasting of their low prices and special deals they could give me. "no thank you".... About an hour later, old, graying ladies with skin browner and weathered by a life-time in the sun came by offering manicure, pedicure, Ayurveda massages at "good price"..."no thank you" "no thank you" "no thank you!!!!!!!!!"

And when they all left, moved onto other tourists along the beach, I couldn't stop thinking about them...I spent the rest of the day reflecting on the lives of these people. To have first met the young children and to then observe the subsequent age progression of the "beach business people"...it was like I fast-forwarded the lives of the young kids; their whole life's journey unfolded before my eyes: every day the same, but with different products to sell...putting countless hours in the hot sun, day after day...year after year...to try to make a few rupees.

The street kids we met at Chowpatty beach also came to mind...I couldn't stop the flood of questions: Do I buy from them? Where is the money actually going? What happens to them at the end of the day if they don't sell anything? Do they get beaten? Are they safe? Do I give the street kids money? I have so much more then them, surely I can give some rupees? If I give to one, do I give to all? Where do you draw the line? How do you draw a line? But what if I honestly don't want anything that they are selling? Then what? How can I help? What is the local government doing to help these people? What's my role?...ah...I need a vacation from my mind!

But it wasn't all so serious...Brandon and I met a newlywed couple from northern India, who were honeymooning in Goa. We spent our days touring and laying out with them and our nights around a table full of rice, dal fry, curries, rotis, kingfisher beer, and talking about our respective lives and cultures. Don't forget the cruise we took around the harbour...complete with traditional Goan music and dance. It was lively, festive, and PACKED full of people!

All-in-all Goa provided me with a nice tan, some deep thought, and new friends. I do think I want to give it another go...maybe check out more of the beaches...but, as Brandon and I said at the end of our stay: "going, going....Goa"

"Chai chai chai!" "Coffee coffee coffee!": The Soundtrack Of An Overnight Train

October 5th, 2010; 8:40 pm...first overnight train ride experince in India...and it went a little like this:

Brandon and I arrivedto the train station in Goa, bound for Kerala, a few hours early (didn't want to mess around and risk missing our train). After surveying the departure board (in Hindi)...we obviously still had no clue about where we were supposed to go. Luckily we found the information desk (and they spoke English!!!) where they directed us to our platform. With an hour and a half before our "scheduled" departure time...come on, this is India---rarely are the trains on time...we popped a squat on a wooden bench that must have been built in the 1970s, dropped our luggage and got comfortable. Brandon found a phone to call his parents, which left me alone, manning (or how about womanning) our valuables. Mentally, I stepped away from that moment and found myself with the awareness that I would soon be doing this a lot: sitting alone, watching my stuff, waiting for trains by myself in the darkness of the night. But what I found from within surpised me...no judgements...no fear, no anxiety, not too much bravery or overly confident...just the realization that I would soon be off on my own, exploring; and the knowledg that I can do it. Like actually do it by myself...and enjoy it. There on that train platform, in the middle of India, surrounded by old men hacking up their lungs, stray dogs searching for crumbs of chapati and curry, women quieting crying babies, and young men peeing off the side of the platform onto the tracks...I could do it (not pee off the side of the tracks, but travel alone). In fact, I was doing it.

But...as I've come to find out now (over the last 7 weeks of traveling through India)...you're never truly alone. Not even five minutes had passed after Brandon left to make his call, before a group of high school seniors from the capital city of Kerala (Trivandrum), began the typical Indian-Foreigner dialogue with me:
"Which country?"
"USA. And you?"
"From (fill-in-the-blank). First time in India?"
"Yes, first time."
"You like India?"
"Yes, I like it very much."
"You have children?"
"No, not yet."
"You marry?"
"No, not yet."
"(Look like I have the plege...then a big smile as if to say "no, really. You ARE married, aren't you?") Why not?"
"(uncomfortable laugh...as if there really is an answer to this one other than "uhhhh") Well, just not the right time yet"

The high schoolers (all boys) were on a field trip to Goa with their French teacher...who they introduced us to and we proceeded to repeat the exact conversation as detailed above. Only this time she also wanted to know how long we've been in India, where we have traveled, how long we planned to stay in India, and what type of work we did at home. (also VERY typical questions to be asked). After sharing our detailed life's story, another group of kids (this time middle schoolers from the state over, Karnataka) came by wanting our contact information so they could email us! I swear, you'd think we were the biggest Bollywood stars! These kids were AWESOME!! We shard our favorite music via our mobile phone speakers, talked about their school, teachers, favorite activities, and who their favorite singers are (I was surprised and releaved that none of them had heard of Lady Gaga or Beyonce--maybe Westernization hasn't spread as much as I thought!).

Finally, following a dinner of Lay's masala flavored chips and a Luna bar, we boarded our train and left only 45 minutes after our scheduled departure time. Brandon and I splurged on our tickets and made our way to our 2nd class, air conditioned sleeper seats. This meant that we each had our own tiny little area: with a bed, pocket to place books & a water bottle, and a curtain. (check out the pictures)

Once we settled in our seats...the soundtrack of the trains of India began:

Track one: chai wallahs shouting "Chai! Chai! Chai!" "Samosa! Samosa! Samosa!"
Track two: snoaring old men
Track three: chatter of couples speaking Hindi
Track four: the squeak of the beds as they rattle along with the train
Track five: chains clanking as people climb up and down the latters to reach the top bunk

...it's at times like these that I'm extremely grateful for my iPod and amazing mixes from wonderful friends!!

Around midnight, however, things settled down as people drifted off to sleep...and my melotonin pills kicked in. But no worries, the "Sounds of the Ernakalum Express" started all over again at 6:00 am. What a glorious way to start your day:

"Chai! Chai! Chai! Coffee! Coffee! Coffee! Bread omellete! Bread omellete!"

Mumbai For A Minute

After leaving the tranquilness of McLeod Ganj, Brandon & I headed (via another night in Amritsar) to the north of southern India: Mumbai. Mumbai (whose pre-1996 name was Bombay) is a cosmopolitan peninsula located on the western shores of India. To me, Mumbai reflects a meeting of New York City, Los Angeles, and Rio...our first glimpses of palm trees line the streets of this fashion, economic, and Bollywood capital; also home to Asia's biggest train station ("Chhatrapati Shivaji" or Victoria Terminus) as well as one of the biggest slums (think Slumdog Millionaire). Oh yea, and did I mention millionaires? Apparently Mumbai is full of them (or "crorepaties" in Hindi). Seriously, we saw some of the most glamorous homes alongside designer fashion boutiques. But more up my alley: Mumbai also holds the title of home of the Independence movement, as then Bombay hosted the first Indian National Congress in 1885 and the Quit India campaign was launched there in 1942 by good ol' Mahatma Gandhi. (gotta love those community organizers!!)

With two-and-a-half days there...and so much to see...we really had to pack the days full. Here are just a few highlights of our time in my favorite bigger Indian city:
1) Mani Bhavan (Gandhi Museum): This museum was first on my "list of things to see" considering my love and appreciation for social change and social justice. The actual building used served as a home stay for Gandhi when he visited Bombay from 1917-1934. He even formulated his philosophy of "satyagraha" (nonviolent protest) and launched the 1932 Civil Disobedience campaign that led to the end of British rule of India. Visiting this place was very special to me...not only because of the community organizing course I took in grad school...but mainly because of my recent travel to and study of South Africa. Mandela and the anti-apartheid movement utilized much of Gandhi's community organizing philosophy and tactics. In fact, the Indian National Congress even had a large influence in South Africa's freedom movement as they worked alongside the African National Congress. Just really powerful for me to have the opportunity to stand on the same balcony that Gandhi stood as he addressed his fellow strugglers in the fight for social justice.
Also, we were in Mumbai during Gandhi's birthday (October 2nd), which is now celebrated as an official Indian holiday...similar to our MLK's birthday in the States). The whole experience just really brought a lot of recent reading (and study) full circle for me.
2) Parsi Tower: The next stop turned out to be just that...a stop. Apparently you're only allowed on the Parsi Tower if you're, well, Parsi. The Parsi are a diminishing community of descendants of Persian Zoroastrians who fled persecution by the Muslims in the 7th century and settled in Bombay. So the Zoroastrian religion hold earth, fire, and water very sacred...therefore they don't cremate or bury their dead. Instead they lay all of the corpses out in the tower...yea, pretty crazy right? It gets better...they do this so the dead bodies will be picked clean by vultures! Talk about the circle of life! Unfortunately, we didn't get to take a look...maybe it's better that way!
3) Inox theater for BOLLYWOOD: After our disappointment with the off-limits Parsi Tower, we headed to the nearest bakery for a cold coca-cola (although Pepsi products really flood the market here in India)...we randomly started talking to a business man on his coffee break about what to do/see in Mumbai. We could tell right away that he must be part of the Mumbai crorepatis, as he recommended some upscale, high-class, swanky restaurants, jazz bars, and night clubs. We did, however, take his suggestion of heading to the Inox theater ("The best theater...no one will bother you or try to take your bags", he assured us).
We made our way over to the Inox, which turned out to be in the first mall we've been to...complete with Dior and D&G alongside a self-proclaimed "Mega Food court" (we resisted all temptations to eat at the first Subway we've seen...when in India you gotta embrace the thalhi and dosa). After dinner we made it just in-time to grab some popcorn (about the quarter of the size of an American movie popcorn...and it was still plenty) and take our place in our pre-assigned seats.
Although the movie, the most recent Bollywood release "Anjaana Anjaani", was 97.75% in Hindi we got the gist of the story. Plus, it took place in the States: NYC, Vegas & San Fran!!! A little piece of home away from home...too bad all of the American characters had the worst accents and were definitely WAY less attractive than the Indian actors...oh well. We enjoyed it. And apparently so did the girl sitting next to me: she texted during the entire movie...
4) Hookah Bar: So I mentioned Mumbai is the cosmopolitan capital of India...obviously that means the teens and young adult children of wealthy Indian businessmen spend their nights smoking sheesha out of communal hookahs at swanky hookah bars. We joined in one the fun one night. After a long day of navigating our way through town, it didn't take much of the green apple sheesha and Kingfisher beer to make me ready for bed!
5) Gateway of India: The next day we made friends with an Australian and Italian duo and boarded a ferry for Elephant Island via the Gateway of India...which was built to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King George V.
6) Elephanta Island: through the Mumbai Harbour, 9km northeast of the Gateway of India, we ferried to this island of rock-cut temples...and no, we didn't see any live (or statues of) elephants...just a bunch of monkeys manipulating their way through tourist's picnic-baskets (don't worry, I did NOT have a repeat of the baboon experience of South Africa) and the ever-so-common malnourished mangy dogs. But weaving our way through the labyrinth of cave-temples, we got to see some of India's most impressive temple carvings: the Shiva temple & the 6m tall statue of Sadhashiva (the three-faced Shiva)...we also took some funny shots with old British cannons. Elephant Island, like any legit Unesco World Heritage Site was well-equipped with Indian chochskies galore! I caved and bought a beautiful OM symbol painted on a golden leaf.
7) Taj Mahal Hotel: Not to stay, but for a beer of course...because pretty much that's all we could afford there! Cross another one off the "1,000 Places To See Before You Die" checklist. Most recently known due to the terrorist attacks in 2008 (now there are HUGE metal detectors and tons of guards at the entrance)...but this hotel is also famously known as India's best hotel. It was grand and elegant...and the lady who gave me hand towels didn't even ask me for 2 rupees!!! Another Kingfisher beer (and unlimited bar snacks for free!!! whoa...this was high-class service) was a pleasant way to watch the sunset over the Arabian Sea.
8) Chowpatty Beach: For dinner that night our foursome went local, to Chowpatty Beach, for an endless array of street food! We bravely tried the Mumbai "bhelpuri": crisp fried thin rounds of dough mixed with puffed rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs & chutney. Delicious!! And the closest thing I've had to a nacho in three weeks!
Chowpatty beach was DEFINITELY the place to be on a Saturday night...everyone was out & enjoying the weekend. Whole families spread their beach towels along the sand, young "love" couples (as opposed to the typical arranged marriages) strolled along the water hand-in-hand, teenaged boys proved their athletic skills with carnival-like games of "toss the ring on the bottle", while teenaged girls (sporting the skimpiest outfits--hey, this is India's fashion capital) enjoyed fresh cotton candy.
We even collected a posse of street children...Mumbai isn't home to only millionaires you know...who we befriended and bought some Indian-style snowcones for.

But with anything, we did run into some not-so-fun moments. Like when our cab driver tried to charge us 200 rupees for what should have been a 20 rupee ride...or when we walked through the most fowl, nauseating smelling street (think animal & human piss mixed with body oder topped off with fresh fish---UHHH gag me!!!)...and driving past whole communities of Mumbaians sleeping on the streets. Overall, I really enjoyed my time in Mumbai...we met some of the friendliest and most helpful locals, walked around EVERYWHERE, and saw some very cool sights. I think I'll be back in Mumbai in December to meet up with a friend from high school.

Tuesday, October 12, 2010

McLeod Ganj: A Meeting Dr. Yeshi Dhonden

A few weeks ago, when we were up in the heavenliness of McLeod Ganj, I paid a little visit to an old Tibetan doctor: Dr. Yeshi Dhonden. This guy is FAMOUS!!! Seriously. So much so that if you want to see him...you gotta wake your ass up at 4:30 am so you can be one of the 60 patients a day that he sees... he is even the Dalai Lama's doctor... so you know he's gotta be good!

I first heard of Dhonden in my Lonely Planet book: "practitioner of amchi (traditional Tibetan medicine), which is a centuries-old healing practice and a popular treatment for all kinds of minor and persistent ailments. Many locals and expats swear by his treatments." Then more praise from one of the guys staying at Swami's...who said that Dhonden was: "amazing!!!" and that "the medicine has really helped me with some digestion issues I've been battling"...

For those of you who know me really well...you know that I am TOTALLY into (and excited by) any form of alternative healing...so I said "sign me up"... even if that meant waking up at 4:30 am...

So one morning I headed down the hill to McLeod Ganj with a new Israeli friend, Dror. (Brandon opted to sleep through this one...) We made it to Yeshi's clinic before the sun had even come up!!! (at 5:09) and there were already 6 people waiting in a make-shift line in front of us. But the thing is, Dr. D's assistant doesn't come check people in until 7:00...oy! So after two hours of trying to stay awake, we got our name put on the doctor's "to do list" for the day...but wait, it gets better: we then found out that the doc don't clock until 9:00! Let's just say that Dror & I became really good friends during that four hour wait!

FINALLY, at 9:10 am, it was my turn to see the docta...(I guess in India they make you wait forever before your appointment time instead of how doctors in the States make you wait forever after your appointment time)...Anyway, Yeshi is the cutest, little old Tibetan man, with a blad head, thick black glasses, and was dressed in full maroon and gold Tibetan monk-like robes. You could sense his wisdom and guru-type nature from the way he presented himself and by the patient's reactions to him...in fact, I met a German woman who has hep c. She said that she makes annual trips to Dr. Dhonden because his treatments are the only thing that has helped her condition...I'm impresed.

When it was my turn, his assistant asked me where my urine sample was....uhh...I had read in my Lonely Plantet book that he would want to check my sample...but my American assumption thought that meant going into the clinic's bathroom with a pee-cup and writing my name on it with the sharpies provided...apparently, not. Then I take a look around and see that every single person has brought their own urine samples with them: in water bottles, small plastic cups, mugs, and even a jack daniels bottle...whoops! I didn't know that it had to be your first pee of the day!! But the reason for the first pee: it's free of any food/beverages that you've had for a good 8 hours...and "pure" for Yeshi to analyze. His urine assessment consists of a once-over-look and then pour into the sink while briskly whisking...here he's checking for any type of infection, how bad it is, and where it is located.

So, skip that part for me...and I went straight into the doctor's office where I sat in a school desk with my arms out so he could check my pulses. He grumbled a bit to his assistant & translator, to which the translator asked me my symptoms. I proceeded to tell him about my chronic congestion, sinus pressure headaches, and throat and ear blockages. (Yes, I've talked to my general doctor about it. Yes, I've seen an ENT at home. Yes, I've been allergy tested. They all say that I'm fine...so when in Tibetan exile? Try a Tibetan doctor.) More grumbling between Dhonden and the translator...and wham, bam, thank you ma'am...I leave 5 minutes later with a prescription for Tibetan pills--that I fill at the pharmacy on-site.

I was given a month's supply of small, brown balls made of herbs. What's in them? Who knows...probably tree bark, roots, and flower pedals? I'm supposed to take two before breakfast, two after lunch, and four after dinner...with warm water. All of that cost me $10.

So, if you checked-out in my latest pictures, you might have seen a couple of me & Dror with the biggest look of digust you've ever seen in your life? Yea, that was post-Tibetan pill taking...god, they taste bad. Like a tiny pile of dirt mixed with fresh tree bark all coasted in a hard shell of earth.

But, they seem to be working...so I'm sticking to it...I'll keep you posted.

Monday, October 11, 2010

India Pictures, Round 2

More pictures uploaded to my shutterfly album...feel free to browse around!

Much love,
Ilene

Click here to view these pictures larger

Ilene in India Updates

Soooooooooo, it's been a little while since I've blogged and for some of you (who aren't on facebook to get my status updates), I've worried you sick. Sorry Dad!!!

But everything is just fine. Brandon and I have been SUPER busy going from here and there to just about everywhere in the last couple of weeks (which I'll give you all of the details in future posts), but at the moment, I'm in Ft. Cochin...which is a coastal town in the southern state of Kerala. We got to Kerala last Monday, and I can tell you this: I honestly believe that I'm actually in the Jungle Book. Pretty sure that Rudyard Kipling must have lived in Kerala, or at least spent some extensive time here...but more about that later...

But for now...some updates:

1) I FINALLY got an India sim card (so now you can call me whenever you want!). Geez!! What a freaking process that one is! Basically all the phones are on a prepaid system here, and apparently after the terrorist attacks in 2008, the Indian government got super strict on foreigners getting phones here. Their thought process (from what the AirTel guy told me) is that a terrorist can come in, get a phone, and the government would have no record of who is calling who. So now, when I got my sim card, I had to give a copy of my passport and visa, two additional passport size photos...Plus my poor tour driver also had to provide a copy of his id and two additional passport size photos to "vouch" for me! Oy vey!

2) When you're traveling for 6 months, it's cool (and TOTALLY acceptable) to wear the same clothes a few days in a row before it goes in the "dirty clothes bag."

3) I'm getting REALLY good at peeing in Indian-style toilets.



4) I'm a little ashamed to admit that I still don't know any Hindi...just namaste (which means "hello") and shuckraee (which means "thank you"). The thing is everyone here speaks English (some better than others), but I do want to try to take a couple of Hindi language classes while I'm here. Gotta make the effort at least!

5) Again, for those of you not on facebook and didn't read my facebook status update, before leaving Mumbai I got my haircut...oy. Lost in translation: the skinny Indian man who cut my hair got a little carried away...I told him "one inch", but maybe I should have said "2.54 centimeters?" He passionately and enthusiastically cut my hair all the way above my shoulders. My new mantra: "hair grows back quickly, hair grows back quickly"...

Before the big chop...



Me post hair-cut...with some middle schoolers I met (and talked with) in the train station before our overnight train to Kerala from Goa




6) Chai in India is freaking amazing!! And costs me 45 cents.

7) I am have come to accept the fact that I'm probably going to have 5 million pictures from my 6 months of travel. I'm currently uploading my pictures, so be on the look-out for India Pictures, Round 2.

8) I finished my first book, "Bicycle Diaries"...thank you Caity, Leah & Lexie for such a thoughtful gift! It was a great, thought-provoking book...highly recommend it!

9) Speaking of books, I really want to write one about women all over the world....

10) So today marks the first day of my solo travel. Brandon left me a few hours ago to begin his 3-day-long-journey back to the States...phew, good luck Brandon! And I'm on my own. It's a mix of emotions really: anxiety, fear, freedom, happiness, nervousness, sadness, astonishment, and gratitude. In my entire life, I've never done anything on my own...truly on my own. All my travels up to this point have been either with an organized group or with another friend; when going to college I knew half of my pledge class before I even rushed; I've always lived with roommates; and even extracurriculars like photography classes or yoga teacher training, I've done with at least one other person. Sure I've driven to Oklahoma City from Austin by myself, visited a museum in Paris alone (when all of my travel-friends were sleeping off the hangovers), started a job where I didn't know anyone...but when I say that I'm going to travel through India for 2 1/2 months by myself, yea, I think that's pretty huge. And while I'm sure this time will present a million different lessons and my thoughts/opinions/feelings on traveling alone will change from time to time...but, at the moment, I am surprisingly (and thankfully) calm and confident. And for that, I'm grateful. I am actually really excited to be totally free and independent of anything and anyone else...to pick & choose...to wake up when I want, to eat when I want, to spend as much time in the museum as I want, to stop for chai when I want...but I'm sure that there will definitely be moments when I'm lonely or want some connection with someone/something familiar. I'll keep you posted on how it all goes...

Saturday, October 2, 2010

McLeod Ganj: A Typical Day in the Life of a Tourist

So, even though McLeod Ganj was two weeks ago now...I figured I'd fill yall in on what we did up there (and what made it such a special place to be)

Wake up around 8:00 or 8:30 am to the sound of Abu and Babu screaming, yelling, and laughing as they get ready for school. Swami, the owner of our guest house, lives downstairs with his wife, Lelu, and three small children: Abu, Babu, Shabu, with dog Tapu...(seriously....NOT making this up). Pop on over to the guest house next door, Evergreen's, for a delicious 90 rupee (about $2) "SPACAL(special) BREAKFAST": four little triangle-cut grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches, a spinach & cheese omelet, big ass bowl of mixed fruit, fresh juice, and coffee...this meal will keep me full all day. We eat outside on the balcony, amongst the pine trees, under the bright blue cloudless sky, with a view of the valley below. Chat it up with our Israeli neighbors, discussing anything from serving in the Israeli army, to American movies, and the latest yoga course tried in McLeod Ganj.

After breakfast, either take off on a 20 minute hike up to Dharamkot to the Tushita Center for a morning Buddhist meditation...or go back to bed. :) The Tushita Center is a center for the study and practice of Buddhism from the Tibetan Mahayana tradition. They offer meditations, courses, and silent retreats. If I had more time up north...I DEFINITELY would have participated in one of their 3- or 5-day silent retreats; super easy to be silent when you're in such a beautiful space!http://www.tushita.info/ The meditation room gets packed fast, so if you want a spot on the wall to rest your back during the 1 1/2 hour meditation...you've gotta get there early. One morning, Brandon & I were running a little late (whoops, slept through the alarm), so we literally had to RUN up the steepest mountain street EVER...phew, I'm thankful for my quadriceps!

Usually the mid-afternoons were spent eating at our favorite restaurant, Evergreen, or trying a smoothie at one of the many organic, healthy, eateries...even if we weren't hungry, we might grab four yummy little momo's (a Tibetan dumpling) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Momo_(food) from one of the street vendors, or perhaps just grab a chai. One day, we shared some chai with a Nepalese guy and a couple of Indian guys in their apartment. They just invited us up...as if we were old friends. It was great to finally talk to some locals and learn their perspectives on Indian culture, health care, politics, travel, and Bollywood! However, one afternoon we actually skipped lunch altogether, to make room for the food we were going to learn to prepare ourselves!! Thanks to Lindsay Kohn, and her wonderful recommendations for things to do/see/try all over India...we got connected with a friend of her's for Indian cooking classes! It took us about 2 hours to learn how to make Yellow Dal, Malai Kofta, and Bangin Bartha. Yum, yum, yummy!!! Afterwards, we enjoyed our food alongside the master chef, Bhimsen, and chatted away the afternoon with him over chai.

Another favorite afternoon activity: two hour yoga sessions (the minimum time for yoga in India!!!) The first day we did a straight-up hatha style class, where we held each pose for up to 5 minutes (whoa...shoulder stand for 3 minutes is INTENSE!). The next few times we tried more of a hatha-flow class with a (apparently) world famous yoga teacher, Vijay. All of the Israelis swore by him...and every local you ask, knew how to direct you to "The Universal Yoga Center for Vijay Yoga"...so Brandon & I thought we'd give him a try. After two hours, we pretty much hit each and every yoga pose under the sun. Honestly, I enjoyed it...but I won't lie, I missed my Dharma Yoga! Plus, half the time I couldn't really understand his accent...however, by the second day it was a little easier to decipher.

The highlights of my yoga in India experiences so far:
1) 100-200 rupees per class = $2.25-$4.50 (god, I love India...the question is: why are we charging up to $20 in the US?!?!?! HELLO!!!)
2) I got up into headstand in the middle of the room...all by myself! HUGE progress for my yoga practice...and something I definitely a proud moment for me! :)

As for the late afternoons/evenings/nights, well we'd hit up the internet cafe with our new Indian friends, Dav and Nik...who must have invited us to join them in a million and twelve activities (meals, drinks, tours, etc...SO friendly)...or shop around in the Tibetan market: some of you will be receiving some VERY cool gifts from there! Like hand painted tankas or handmade yoga mat bags! One night, we went to check out the Tsuglagkhang Complex: the official residence of the Dalai Lama, the Tibet Museum, and the Tsuglagkhang (which is a Tibetan temple...the exile's equivalent to the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa)...such a POWERFUL place to walk around and absorb. At any given time, you can see monks praying, give offerings to the beautifully intricate gilded Tibetan Buddhas (some are 3 meters high!), or spin the gorgeous gold Tibetan prayer wheels to send healing prayers out to the world (got some good pics of them...and was my recent facebook profile pic). I felt the calm, steady, and peaceful energy throughout the complex--it's the kinda place to take a journal and write about the meaning of life.

Then we'd be off to enjoy a falafel dinner or group meal with our Israeli neighbors. Watch the sunset from the roof of Swami's Guest House with a nice, with a hot cup of chai or fresh mint tea (both 10 rups each)...or hang out with some of our local friends to chat the night away.

All-in-all, McLeod Ganj/Bhagsu was the PERFECT way to spend a week...and I was beaming the entire time! And sooooo sad to leave...(apparently, you can experience feelings of grief & loss for a place you've been only 6 days)...but alas, there were more adventures to be had. I definitely want to go back there (especially for my birthday: to hear the Dalai Lama speak!!) sometime during my stay here in India.