Going Going Goa...And My Existential Crisis

After an action-packed couple of days in Mumbai, Brandon & I headed down to India's smallest state, the beach-lined Goa, for some much needed R & R. We spent a grand total of 2 1/2 days there (October 3-5...I know, I know...I'm really far behind on this thing). After we landed at the airport, our driver picked us up & my initial reaction to our new surroundings: TROPICAL LOVELINESS!! Goa reminded me a lot of Belize: tropical climate, palm trees jetting straight out of the dark blue water, and the greenest, most luscious grasses and plants. Driving around Goa I could definitely spot the Portuguese influence: basilicas on every corner, Casa Bernardo/Fernando/Maria guest houses, crosses dotting the streets, names like "St. Anthony's Family Restaurant" and "Sweet Jesus" bus company. The Portuguese arrived here in 1510...seeking control of the region's lucrative spice route. With their conquering came the religious oppression and brutality of the Goan Inquisition. Where you'd normally see shrines of Hindu gods like Shiva, Krishna, or Ganesh...in Goa they have been replaced by pictures of Jesus.

So Goa has a BIG reputation for being THE tourist destination (for both Westerners and Indians alike)...and I'd heard fantastic reviews from other backpackers of this 3701 square kilometer slice of heaven...but to be honest, I think I need to give Goa another try...because I definitely had higher hopes for this little place.

That's not to say that I didn't enjoy my time there; believe me...nothing makes me happier than laying out poolside at a nice beach resort (thank you Bambolim Beach Resort) or underneath an umbrella on the sand among palm tress...

I guess I was just a little disappointed by the HUGE amount of trash floating next to me while body surfing and saddened by the high number of children walking up and down the beach begging tourists (both foreign and local) to buy their shell necklaces or leather braided bracelets. At one point, I think I had six children (all between the ages of 7-12) surrounding me on my beach chair, with their jewelery strewn across my legs, stomach, and chest, reasoning with me: "for you, 25 rupees." "no thank you. I don't want it." "why not? It's good price." "no, it's ok." "ok, you look tomorrow and buy." "why aren't you in school? Stop selling these things and go to school. Do you know show to read or write?" blank stares.... "no. You want to see more necklaces?" "no. Go to school and learn, then you can make lots of money." About 15 minutes of persistence, I caved a bought a bracelet...bad idea! Then they all wanted me to buy from them! Finally I had to get up and go in the polluted water just to get away.

When I returned to my chair, not 10 minutes went past before a group of teenaged girls with blankets and sarongs came by...boasting of their low prices and special deals they could give me. "no thank you".... About an hour later, old, graying ladies with skin browner and weathered by a life-time in the sun came by offering manicure, pedicure, Ayurveda massages at "good price"..."no thank you" "no thank you" "no thank you!!!!!!!!!"

And when they all left, moved onto other tourists along the beach, I couldn't stop thinking about them...I spent the rest of the day reflecting on the lives of these people. To have first met the young children and to then observe the subsequent age progression of the "beach business people"...it was like I fast-forwarded the lives of the young kids; their whole life's journey unfolded before my eyes: every day the same, but with different products to sell...putting countless hours in the hot sun, day after day...year after year...to try to make a few rupees.

The street kids we met at Chowpatty beach also came to mind...I couldn't stop the flood of questions: Do I buy from them? Where is the money actually going? What happens to them at the end of the day if they don't sell anything? Do they get beaten? Are they safe? Do I give the street kids money? I have so much more then them, surely I can give some rupees? If I give to one, do I give to all? Where do you draw the line? How do you draw a line? But what if I honestly don't want anything that they are selling? Then what? How can I help? What is the local government doing to help these people? What's my role?...ah...I need a vacation from my mind!

But it wasn't all so serious...Brandon and I met a newlywed couple from northern India, who were honeymooning in Goa. We spent our days touring and laying out with them and our nights around a table full of rice, dal fry, curries, rotis, kingfisher beer, and talking about our respective lives and cultures. Don't forget the cruise we took around the harbour...complete with traditional Goan music and dance. It was lively, festive, and PACKED full of people!

All-in-all Goa provided me with a nice tan, some deep thought, and new friends. I do think I want to give it another go...maybe check out more of the beaches...but, as Brandon and I said at the end of our stay: "going, going....Goa"